August 14 Mile 1456
Met with Infectious Disease Doc- good news, no blood infection, and MRI shows no bone or tendon infection. Only in the soft tissues. So the surgeon comes by and says they will lance the area with local anesthesia, draining away the infection.
But, then comes the bad news, the news that no thru hiker wants to hear: my hike this year is over- after treatment here I need to go home and receive continued monitoring and surgical care until healed. This could take a few weeks to get me back to normal. With a open wound that will continue to remain open while healing, plus the pain of putting pressure on my right foot, I can understand why this will take awhile. By the time I am better- maybe mid- September- I will have lost the season and won't have the nearly 2 months I would need to finish from here. So, back home I will go once released from the hospital in a few days.
I am thankful I was able to get medical help so quickly. This could have been a disaster. All the docs said without the quick treatment that I got I could have lost my leg or even my life. I shudder to think what I would have done if I had been high up in some remote area with many miles to a town when the worst of this hit.
So, here at the end, I have hiked 1456 miles in about 130 hiking days, leaving Mt Springer Ga nearly 5 months ago. I have made it to New England, and gone exactly 2/3rds of the way. Only about 720 miles left.
I think back about cold days, hot days, mountains straight up, long ridge walks, slabs of rocks and boulders to climb, trail towns, as well as all the colorful characters we have met and the many kind people along the way. Stopping now, right on the verge of entering the prettiest part of the hike, with cool weather ahead, disappointment is too puny a word. Cisco said the reward you get on the thru hike, though many difficult climbs are ahead, is the beauty of New England.
But for us it will have to wait for another day. Cisco is not going to go on without me (He's a good son!) We will plan to finish next year. We only have about two months to go - a section hike- and we have done so much and gone so far, already. We want to complete this together.
Nothing so far has been in vain or a waste, even though I stop here- being with my son has been the best and all that I have experienced has effected me in nothing but good ways. You put yourself to the test out here- mentally and physically-certainly the hardest thing I have ever done. But incredibly rewarding. So, even though I can't complete a thru hike-( well, technically I guess I could, as I have till March 22, 2011, but I don't plan to be trudging thru snow and sub freezing temps up here!) this hike has been a success.
I was just laid low by some bug- funny how a tiny microbe can do so much damage. Again, they don't know what caused the infection- I think I'll go with the Brown Recluse Spider, when I tell my trail stories. Certainly sounds more exciting than a splinter.
Post Script:
I hope you enjoyed my blog over the past 5 months. If you would like to keep up with me when I return to the trail, for the conclusion of my misadventures, let me know at paulrburks@gmail.com and I will
be sure to notify you next year or whenever I am able to complete my journey. Until then, as we say out here, "See you up the trail. Hike safe."
Pops
Sent from my iPhone
Sunday, August 15, 2010
August 13 Mile 1456
Actually slept well. And swelling going down a little with treatment. Talked to my Sweety and she is flying up right away. It will be great to see her. Can't even hang my right foot over the bed, much less walk. Cannot even conceive being somewhere out the woods right now. So thankful I got off in Kent! What a crazy development!
They perform an MRI in the afternoon on the ankle and foot to see if the infection has moved to the bone or tendons. And all the moving around is very painful.
Won't let me eat till afternoon, as they are contemplating surgery. Decide to put it off until they review MRI. And blood tests.
So what is it? Know one knows. Could be tick bite, could be Brown Recluse Spider, could be some tough ants that have moved into the neighborhood. Bad infection, that's for sure. They do rule out MRSA- a very serious bacterial infection that requires quarantine.
My Sweety comes, my treatment is allowing my swelling to improve, but the foot and ankle cannot be dangled over the bed, much less walked on. The pain is a definite 10!
But no fever and feeling ok!
Slept fine Friday night.
Actually slept well. And swelling going down a little with treatment. Talked to my Sweety and she is flying up right away. It will be great to see her. Can't even hang my right foot over the bed, much less walk. Cannot even conceive being somewhere out the woods right now. So thankful I got off in Kent! What a crazy development!
They perform an MRI in the afternoon on the ankle and foot to see if the infection has moved to the bone or tendons. And all the moving around is very painful.
Won't let me eat till afternoon, as they are contemplating surgery. Decide to put it off until they review MRI. And blood tests.
So what is it? Know one knows. Could be tick bite, could be Brown Recluse Spider, could be some tough ants that have moved into the neighborhood. Bad infection, that's for sure. They do rule out MRSA- a very serious bacterial infection that requires quarantine.
My Sweety comes, my treatment is allowing my swelling to improve, but the foot and ankle cannot be dangled over the bed, much less walked on. The pain is a definite 10!
But no fever and feeling ok!
Slept fine Friday night.
August 12 Mile 1456
Got up this morning and my ankle was even more swollen and painful. Taking a step to use the church restroom was incredibly painful. We had decided we would stay in Kent till Saturday- about 3 days- to see how I am improving. It worked out well with Tunes and Toosie Pop's schedule, as it will be her birthday tomorrow and they planned on a couple day break.
Cisco and I decided to stay at Cooper Creek B&B a few miles up the road. Told us we could bring food for dinner. Chance to take a shower and sleep in a clean bed, maybe that will help in my recovery. Went up to the B&B about 3 PM and showered and napped. I was feeling a little poorly, as my ankle and foot were still swelling and taking a step was near impossible. Ate dinner around 7 and decided I was not improving or staying the same. So called my doc back and she said, "go to the emergency room now!" The B&B owner was kind enough to drive us down to the New Milford Hospital about 20 miles south.
While waiting in the ER a woman with two small children looks down at my swollen red foot and says, "do you watch the TV show 'Monster inside Me' before I could answer she says, "you have some bugs inside your foot" and her children chime in, "yeah, bugs, and they come out thru the skin like on the show" . She wouldn't stop talking about bugs inside me and she was a very normal looking person. Luckily she left.
Got to see a doc pretty quickly, not like an Atlanta ER, and the doc was stunned at the swollen ankle and foot. He couldn't believe I had hiked 15 miles on it the day before and told me this was pretty serious and would require X-rays and blood tests. A very nice surgeon was called and he said they may have to operate due to the nature and spread of the infection. Could be in the bone, could be in the blood. So, what I thought was a simple bug bite, now becomes this limb or life threatening infection. Didn't expect this.
Foot and ankle really hurting at this point, admitted to a room and get IV antibiotics.
But really thankful I am getting serious medical treatment.
Will see what happens tomorrow.
Got up this morning and my ankle was even more swollen and painful. Taking a step to use the church restroom was incredibly painful. We had decided we would stay in Kent till Saturday- about 3 days- to see how I am improving. It worked out well with Tunes and Toosie Pop's schedule, as it will be her birthday tomorrow and they planned on a couple day break.
Cisco and I decided to stay at Cooper Creek B&B a few miles up the road. Told us we could bring food for dinner. Chance to take a shower and sleep in a clean bed, maybe that will help in my recovery. Went up to the B&B about 3 PM and showered and napped. I was feeling a little poorly, as my ankle and foot were still swelling and taking a step was near impossible. Ate dinner around 7 and decided I was not improving or staying the same. So called my doc back and she said, "go to the emergency room now!" The B&B owner was kind enough to drive us down to the New Milford Hospital about 20 miles south.
While waiting in the ER a woman with two small children looks down at my swollen red foot and says, "do you watch the TV show 'Monster inside Me' before I could answer she says, "you have some bugs inside your foot" and her children chime in, "yeah, bugs, and they come out thru the skin like on the show" . She wouldn't stop talking about bugs inside me and she was a very normal looking person. Luckily she left.
Got to see a doc pretty quickly, not like an Atlanta ER, and the doc was stunned at the swollen ankle and foot. He couldn't believe I had hiked 15 miles on it the day before and told me this was pretty serious and would require X-rays and blood tests. A very nice surgeon was called and he said they may have to operate due to the nature and spread of the infection. Could be in the bone, could be in the blood. So, what I thought was a simple bug bite, now becomes this limb or life threatening infection. Didn't expect this.
Foot and ankle really hurting at this point, admitted to a room and get IV antibiotics.
But really thankful I am getting serious medical treatment.
Will see what happens tomorrow.
August 11 Mile 1456
Get up a little slowly, as we went to bed so late. My ankle and foot are really hurting. Hoped that it would improve overnight, but it is no better and is difficult to put weight on. Eat breakfast and start off. I am very slow and, boy, Conn is just as rocky and looks no different than any other state we have been in. Actually find a creek with water in it after two miles and Cisco and I decide to load up-three liters- even though the extra weight is difficult to carry. Water has been so scarce for the past 4 states. I am moving only 1 mile per hour due to my foot and ankle pain. So we come down to a road after hiking only 3 miles, and it's already 11:30., cause I have been so slow. We are about a mile from the town of Kent, Conn. I am stubborn and really want to hike through this, but Tootsie Pop and the others are concerned that my foot should be looked at by a doctor. As we are standing by the road a car pulls up and a hiker gets out and is talking to the driver. I debate in my mind for awhile what to do, and decide I should probably go into town, as this is the largest community for awhile, and even it's pretty small. I go up to the car to ask the driver for a lift into Kent and the young hiker says, "this is my mom and she is a nurse". So I say, "well my ankle is hurting and I think it should be looked at . " So, she says, "let me see it". I roll down my right sock and she looks at my swollen red ankle. "you have cellulitis", and I have no clue what that is. She says "it's a skin infection from some bacteria or insect bite. I will drive you to town"
"How about my 3 companions?" I ask. She says, "sure, hop in". We meet the nicest people on the trail.
Into town and they actually have a walk-in clinic. They tell me to come back at 3:15, which makes me very happy they can see me so soon, as it is really hurting.
Kent is a very cute New England town, lots of book stores and some coffee shops and a welcoming library with Internet.
Eat lunch, hang out at the library and hobble back to the clinic on time.
Sure enough, our good Samaritan nurse was correct- cellulitis- needing antibiotic treatment, but should clear up in 2-3 days. Doc says she sees it all the time on us hikers. Any break in the skin, and infection can manifest itself. She told me if it didn't improve in a few days or got worse, I would need to go to a hospital. That was sobering. Didn't expect that.
So I get my script, eat dinner and hang out in town. Turns out the local Episcopal priest, Rector Roger is super nice and friendly to hikers, and will let us camp in the Rectory backyard. So we do. Of course my ankle is really hurting at this point all I can do is get up my tent and go to bed.
Maybe the med will kill some of this bug and I will start to feel better tomorrow.
Get up a little slowly, as we went to bed so late. My ankle and foot are really hurting. Hoped that it would improve overnight, but it is no better and is difficult to put weight on. Eat breakfast and start off. I am very slow and, boy, Conn is just as rocky and looks no different than any other state we have been in. Actually find a creek with water in it after two miles and Cisco and I decide to load up-three liters- even though the extra weight is difficult to carry. Water has been so scarce for the past 4 states. I am moving only 1 mile per hour due to my foot and ankle pain. So we come down to a road after hiking only 3 miles, and it's already 11:30., cause I have been so slow. We are about a mile from the town of Kent, Conn. I am stubborn and really want to hike through this, but Tootsie Pop and the others are concerned that my foot should be looked at by a doctor. As we are standing by the road a car pulls up and a hiker gets out and is talking to the driver. I debate in my mind for awhile what to do, and decide I should probably go into town, as this is the largest community for awhile, and even it's pretty small. I go up to the car to ask the driver for a lift into Kent and the young hiker says, "this is my mom and she is a nurse". So I say, "well my ankle is hurting and I think it should be looked at . " So, she says, "let me see it". I roll down my right sock and she looks at my swollen red ankle. "you have cellulitis", and I have no clue what that is. She says "it's a skin infection from some bacteria or insect bite. I will drive you to town"
"How about my 3 companions?" I ask. She says, "sure, hop in". We meet the nicest people on the trail.
Into town and they actually have a walk-in clinic. They tell me to come back at 3:15, which makes me very happy they can see me so soon, as it is really hurting.
Kent is a very cute New England town, lots of book stores and some coffee shops and a welcoming library with Internet.
Eat lunch, hang out at the library and hobble back to the clinic on time.
Sure enough, our good Samaritan nurse was correct- cellulitis- needing antibiotic treatment, but should clear up in 2-3 days. Doc says she sees it all the time on us hikers. Any break in the skin, and infection can manifest itself. She told me if it didn't improve in a few days or got worse, I would need to go to a hospital. That was sobering. Didn't expect that.
So I get my script, eat dinner and hang out in town. Turns out the local Episcopal priest, Rector Roger is super nice and friendly to hikers, and will let us camp in the Rectory backyard. So we do. Of course my ankle is really hurting at this point all I can do is get up my tent and go to bed.
Maybe the med will kill some of this bug and I will start to feel better tomorrow.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
August 10 Mile 1453
This morning I said Goodbye to my Sweety, after being with her for the past 10 days. It is always very difficult to say goodbye to some one you love, knowing that you won't see them for quite awhile. But that also fires me up to see this hike through and get to Katahdin so we can get back home. At this point we are about 2/3 rds through. And today we entered Connecticut!
! We are officially in New England! Can't believe I made it this far.
Today's hike seemed never ending. Up and downs, lots of rocks as usual, but we also had a nice hike by Ten Mile River. At this point the trail takes you in and out of NY and Conn. But at the end of the day you are in Conn. The pack weight seemed the worst since we began! Guess that happens when you are out of practice. Plus it was hot, til the rains came. So we were slow and tired, but still did 15 miles.
Got caught in a big rainstorm late in the day, causing us to not reach the campsite til almost dark. I really hate getting in that late. Cooking and eating in the dark, setting up your tent in the dark- all makes for a short evening and no time to relax after hiking 15 miles.
My pain of the day was the bug bite in my right ankle, which has swollen up and really hurts when I walk. Most pain since I first noticed it. Add the pack weight and going up hills, made for a long day.
This morning I said Goodbye to my Sweety, after being with her for the past 10 days. It is always very difficult to say goodbye to some one you love, knowing that you won't see them for quite awhile. But that also fires me up to see this hike through and get to Katahdin so we can get back home. At this point we are about 2/3 rds through. And today we entered Connecticut!
Today's hike seemed never ending. Up and downs, lots of rocks as usual, but we also had a nice hike by Ten Mile River. At this point the trail takes you in and out of NY and Conn. But at the end of the day you are in Conn. The pack weight seemed the worst since we began! Guess that happens when you are out of practice. Plus it was hot, til the rains came. So we were slow and tired, but still did 15 miles.
Got caught in a big rainstorm late in the day, causing us to not reach the campsite til almost dark. I really hate getting in that late. Cooking and eating in the dark, setting up your tent in the dark- all makes for a short evening and no time to relax after hiking 15 miles.
My pain of the day was the bug bite in my right ankle, which has swollen up and really hurts when I walk. Most pain since I first noticed it. Add the pack weight and going up hills, made for a long day.
August 9 Mile 1438
Zero Day! Got up pretty early, around 7 AM, ate a good hotel breakfast, did laundry,then off to another Apple Store, as I realize my I-phone is now just a paper weight due to the rainstorm last month. The battery is dead and won't hold a charge. So bought a replacement I-phone. Went to Wal-Mart, resupplied, then a MOVIE! "Inception"-really liked it, nice escapism while on the trail, which is escapism in itself, I suppose. Dinner at Chili's and then some ice cream. While waiting in the line for ice cream looked down at my right foot and ankle-sore and redder and a little swollen. It had been achy all day, but don't notice it as much when not hiking. Guess it's a bug or spider bite-be glad when it goes down. Hurts a little more than yesterday, when I flex it, but I am sure it will improve tomorrow. Get lots of bites out here-they come and go and cause no long lasting problem.
Back to Motel for an early nite and sorry and sad that my Sweety and MGOTU leave tomorrow. But the sooner we are done, the sooner we are together again.
Zero Day! Got up pretty early, around 7 AM, ate a good hotel breakfast, did laundry,then off to another Apple Store, as I realize my I-phone is now just a paper weight due to the rainstorm last month. The battery is dead and won't hold a charge. So bought a replacement I-phone. Went to Wal-Mart, resupplied, then a MOVIE! "Inception"-really liked it, nice escapism while on the trail, which is escapism in itself, I suppose. Dinner at Chili's and then some ice cream. While waiting in the line for ice cream looked down at my right foot and ankle-sore and redder and a little swollen. It had been achy all day, but don't notice it as much when not hiking. Guess it's a bug or spider bite-be glad when it goes down. Hurts a little more than yesterday, when I flex it, but I am sure it will improve tomorrow. Get lots of bites out here-they come and go and cause no long lasting problem.
Back to Motel for an early nite and sorry and sad that my Sweety and MGOTU leave tomorrow. But the sooner we are done, the sooner we are together again.
August 8 Mile 1438
Always get up a little earlier when on the trail itself. Packed up and decided to go to a deli that is near the AT. Again, it's a wonder having motorized transportation. Get started hiking and pass NY 52, near Stormville and actually have a long morning of a pretty pleasant trail, elevation wise. Noticed yesterday that my new KEEN ankle high hiking boot, which I have been slowly breaking in since my Sweety came, seemed for some reason to be rubbing on my right ankle bone and causing a bit of an irritation. No big problem, so today I switched to my low slip on Keen hiking shoes, which I bought in Port Clinton and are quite comfortable by the way. In fact, since I got these low hiking slip-ons, Rite Aid shoe pads, "orthosoles" for my ankle high boots, as well as my ankle high Keen boots, my bottom foot problems are basically vanished. Still have numbness, but under the toes next to the big toes, but I am condemned to this til the end. And it not a real problem anymore. But today, noticed an ache in my ankle, like it spread from the rubbing I felt yesterday. Whatever. What's that about. Along this whole hike it seems as though when I solve one medical or pain problem, a new one pops up. Whether its knees, bursitis, blisters, back pain, thigh pain, foot pains, toe numbness-I don't get it. At least I have been able to resolve them and have gone on.
So on we go. Past Nuclear Lake, where there was once a nuclear power plant-very pretty restored site-over West Mountain, down by the Telephone Pioneers Shelter, and across West Dover Road, where we come up to the Largest Oak on the AT-20 feet, 4 inches and over 300 years old. I marvel that the whole country used to have trees like this one-and chestnut trees as well! Wish I could get in a time machine and go about 300 years in the future to see what this protected area will look like then. Thank goodness 80 years ago people began preserving our eastern forests from GA to Maine.
A couple of miles after the oak, finished up at one of the more unique features of the trail-the Appalachian Trail Railroad Station-a real train platform that from time to time a train will stop and take you into NYC-about 40 or so miles away. The schedule is somewhat sketchy tp me, but does exist. And thru-hikers have been known to take the train to the big city-pack and all. Must look strange in the Big Apple. A train did come by and not stop while we were there-whoosed thru real fast blowing anything and everything over. I think I'd rather stay out here.
This was the end of the slack-packing extravaganza and my Sweety's help, though she and MGOTU are staying another day for a zero day! Hurray!
So, we drove from here near Pawling, NY, very close to the Conn border to Danbury, Conn to find a motel room for the next two nights.
At the end of the day my ankle was hurting more, right where you bend it. Maybe it was a bug bite. Be glad when it heals up.
To motel and dinner at Outback Steakhouse-how civilized can you get.
Always get up a little earlier when on the trail itself. Packed up and decided to go to a deli that is near the AT. Again, it's a wonder having motorized transportation. Get started hiking and pass NY 52, near Stormville and actually have a long morning of a pretty pleasant trail, elevation wise. Noticed yesterday that my new KEEN ankle high hiking boot, which I have been slowly breaking in since my Sweety came, seemed for some reason to be rubbing on my right ankle bone and causing a bit of an irritation. No big problem, so today I switched to my low slip on Keen hiking shoes, which I bought in Port Clinton and are quite comfortable by the way. In fact, since I got these low hiking slip-ons, Rite Aid shoe pads, "orthosoles" for my ankle high boots, as well as my ankle high Keen boots, my bottom foot problems are basically vanished. Still have numbness, but under the toes next to the big toes, but I am condemned to this til the end. And it not a real problem anymore. But today, noticed an ache in my ankle, like it spread from the rubbing I felt yesterday. Whatever. What's that about. Along this whole hike it seems as though when I solve one medical or pain problem, a new one pops up. Whether its knees, bursitis, blisters, back pain, thigh pain, foot pains, toe numbness-I don't get it. At least I have been able to resolve them and have gone on.
So on we go. Past Nuclear Lake, where there was once a nuclear power plant-very pretty restored site-over West Mountain, down by the Telephone Pioneers Shelter, and across West Dover Road, where we come up to the Largest Oak on the AT-20 feet, 4 inches and over 300 years old. I marvel that the whole country used to have trees like this one-and chestnut trees as well! Wish I could get in a time machine and go about 300 years in the future to see what this protected area will look like then. Thank goodness 80 years ago people began preserving our eastern forests from GA to Maine.
A couple of miles after the oak, finished up at one of the more unique features of the trail-the Appalachian Trail Railroad Station-a real train platform that from time to time a train will stop and take you into NYC-about 40 or so miles away. The schedule is somewhat sketchy tp me, but does exist. And thru-hikers have been known to take the train to the big city-pack and all. Must look strange in the Big Apple. A train did come by and not stop while we were there-whoosed thru real fast blowing anything and everything over. I think I'd rather stay out here.
This was the end of the slack-packing extravaganza and my Sweety's help, though she and MGOTU are staying another day for a zero day! Hurray!
So, we drove from here near Pawling, NY, very close to the Conn border to Danbury, Conn to find a motel room for the next two nights.
At the end of the day my ankle was hurting more, right where you bend it. Maybe it was a bug bite. Be glad when it heals up.
To motel and dinner at Outback Steakhouse-how civilized can you get.
August 7 Mile 1422
Today turned hot again. I thought I was up north where it was cooler in the summer! Hiked over Mt Shenandoah and had nice views of the Catskill Mtns to the north. Then near and through Clarence Fahnestock State Park, where I could hear lots of people swimming in a lake, but couldn't see them due to the tree screen. Normal view blockage! Had lunch with my Sweety again and she bought us some surprises for dinnertime. After lunch we hiked on, of course, -ups and downs-rocks and boulders, long green tunnel, same old, same old. For some reason I thought that NY would be different or prettier than the states that came before. The overall landscape from the car is pretty, but from the woods, it is much the same as we have seen, except there are a few more hemlock trees (Sadly they all have the blight and are dying). So we trudge onward, looking for that promised land of New England, that everyone says has such great views.
At the end of the day we get to the Hosner Mtn Road and then drive back to the RPH Shelter. Here there is a large shelter near the main road-it's another Pizza shelter! But before we order dinner, my Sweety brings out her surprises-Heirloom Tomato, Smoked Trout, wine, green tea, goat cheese, baggette, olive oil, basil,and a candle for ambiance. Hikers have never had such luxury!
Then we order pizza, it got dark, we ate, and we crawled into our tents for the evening.
Another good hiking day! 15 miles-I love 15 mile days-not too short and not too long. Days like this will get us to the end of the Trail with no stress.
Today turned hot again. I thought I was up north where it was cooler in the summer! Hiked over Mt Shenandoah and had nice views of the Catskill Mtns to the north. Then near and through Clarence Fahnestock State Park, where I could hear lots of people swimming in a lake, but couldn't see them due to the tree screen. Normal view blockage! Had lunch with my Sweety again and she bought us some surprises for dinnertime. After lunch we hiked on, of course, -ups and downs-rocks and boulders, long green tunnel, same old, same old. For some reason I thought that NY would be different or prettier than the states that came before. The overall landscape from the car is pretty, but from the woods, it is much the same as we have seen, except there are a few more hemlock trees (Sadly they all have the blight and are dying). So we trudge onward, looking for that promised land of New England, that everyone says has such great views.
At the end of the day we get to the Hosner Mtn Road and then drive back to the RPH Shelter. Here there is a large shelter near the main road-it's another Pizza shelter! But before we order dinner, my Sweety brings out her surprises-Heirloom Tomato, Smoked Trout, wine, green tea, goat cheese, baggette, olive oil, basil,and a candle for ambiance. Hikers have never had such luxury!
Then we order pizza, it got dark, we ate, and we crawled into our tents for the evening.
Another good hiking day! 15 miles-I love 15 mile days-not too short and not too long. Days like this will get us to the end of the Trail with no stress.
August 6 Mile 1407
Got up, not too early, as is the habit when staying at a motel, and ate their free breakfast. Drove back to the top of Bear Mtn, and climbed the tower, nice views and a beautiful stone structure that had multiple photos of the early days of the Park. Here my Sweety got a chance to hike a bit with us. And what a great spot to hike! It was downhill for 2 miles, and the trail, because it was in the park, was one of the nicest groomed pea gravel trails we have seen! A real delight. Views of the wide Hudson River abounded. When we got to the bottom we hiked near the original Bear Mtn Inn, that is currently closed for renovations and past various eating venues for the state park-soft drinks, food, whatever you wanted. Then, one of the coolest and most unusual venues on the trail-the AT takes you right through the Trailside Zoo! A real state run zoo, so we took our time, observing the animals and reached the lowest point on the entire trail-the Bear Den-about 145 feet in elevation. Then out of the Zoo, across the Hudson River, up a highway and back into the woods. As we hiked, my older son, got his trail name. thrown out in humor-Grand Master of the Universe-or GMOTU (pronounced Gee-moo-too) So he was christened for the rest of the hike and forever. Tough hiking day from here-boulders, rocks, ups and downs-all streams dry (luckily we had our own water) and then a great lunch from my Sweety at a dirt road, that I am amazed she could find. in fact, she was amazing finding us each day at road crossings, meals, etc. And we had no trail map for her, and the I-phone apps were of limited value. She was a real Lewis and Clark-actually, better, as she never got lost.
Today we hiked around and through numerous old massive rock walls, like the ones I have mentioned since VA. I don't know who built them, or when, but they are impressive and incredibly long. Stacked up 3-4 feet high-I cannot imagine the worker hours to assemble them.
At the end of the hiking day, we decided to camp at a state camping area known as Dennytown Road-a huge open flat space near the trail. Plenty of room for all of us on this Friday night, my oldest Brother's birthday, by the way! Happy Birthday!!
Near us camping, but far enough away, was a huge noisy camping party. They screamed, yelled and carried on until 1:30 AM! I was too tired to notice, but it was annoying for awhile. They even shot off fireworks!
As evening fell, we had excellent weather, we got food from our food bags and made dinner and built a big fire. A very nice camping night, the kind you hope for.
Got up, not too early, as is the habit when staying at a motel, and ate their free breakfast. Drove back to the top of Bear Mtn, and climbed the tower, nice views and a beautiful stone structure that had multiple photos of the early days of the Park. Here my Sweety got a chance to hike a bit with us. And what a great spot to hike! It was downhill for 2 miles, and the trail, because it was in the park, was one of the nicest groomed pea gravel trails we have seen! A real delight. Views of the wide Hudson River abounded. When we got to the bottom we hiked near the original Bear Mtn Inn, that is currently closed for renovations and past various eating venues for the state park-soft drinks, food, whatever you wanted. Then, one of the coolest and most unusual venues on the trail-the AT takes you right through the Trailside Zoo! A real state run zoo, so we took our time, observing the animals and reached the lowest point on the entire trail-the Bear Den-about 145 feet in elevation. Then out of the Zoo, across the Hudson River, up a highway and back into the woods. As we hiked, my older son, got his trail name. thrown out in humor-Grand Master of the Universe-or GMOTU (pronounced Gee-moo-too) So he was christened for the rest of the hike and forever. Tough hiking day from here-boulders, rocks, ups and downs-all streams dry (luckily we had our own water) and then a great lunch from my Sweety at a dirt road, that I am amazed she could find. in fact, she was amazing finding us each day at road crossings, meals, etc. And we had no trail map for her, and the I-phone apps were of limited value. She was a real Lewis and Clark-actually, better, as she never got lost.
Today we hiked around and through numerous old massive rock walls, like the ones I have mentioned since VA. I don't know who built them, or when, but they are impressive and incredibly long. Stacked up 3-4 feet high-I cannot imagine the worker hours to assemble them.
At the end of the hiking day, we decided to camp at a state camping area known as Dennytown Road-a huge open flat space near the trail. Plenty of room for all of us on this Friday night, my oldest Brother's birthday, by the way! Happy Birthday!!
Near us camping, but far enough away, was a huge noisy camping party. They screamed, yelled and carried on until 1:30 AM! I was too tired to notice, but it was annoying for awhile. They even shot off fireworks!
As evening fell, we had excellent weather, we got food from our food bags and made dinner and built a big fire. A very nice camping night, the kind you hope for.
August 5 Mile 1392
Today my older son hiked with us, out of about 12 miles 0f the 17 we did. That is very good. When we started hiking, we were doing about 8-10 miles a day and feeling everyone of them. Now, after more than 4 months, we routinely can do 15-18 miles or more if the terrain and weather are cooperative-and we start early enough in the day. So we normally are moving at about 2 MPH. It's hard and not fair to ask someone who hasn"t hiked with us to do the same pace and mileage-but my son did fine. Went through a rock opening called Lemon Squeezer-I think the name describes it well-luckily I have lost so much weight out here. Then over Black Mountain, with fantastic views of the Hudson River, leading up to Bear Mtn Park, West Mtn, and West Point. It was one of the prettiest scenes I have seen looking down on a water and city area. Far prettier than Harper's Ferry. After much up and down over more rocks, got to the top of Bear Mtn State Park-where there is a tower build back in the 20s or 30s. Beautiful spot with great views from the boulders on top of the mtn. The tower had closed for the day, so we decided to check it out the next day, as this was our end point for tonight. So, down to the city of Fort Montgomery near West Point, found a room at the Econolodge, got dinner and settled in for the night. Weather a little better-but now we have AC. AHH!
Today my older son hiked with us, out of about 12 miles 0f the 17 we did. That is very good. When we started hiking, we were doing about 8-10 miles a day and feeling everyone of them. Now, after more than 4 months, we routinely can do 15-18 miles or more if the terrain and weather are cooperative-and we start early enough in the day. So we normally are moving at about 2 MPH. It's hard and not fair to ask someone who hasn"t hiked with us to do the same pace and mileage-but my son did fine. Went through a rock opening called Lemon Squeezer-I think the name describes it well-luckily I have lost so much weight out here. Then over Black Mountain, with fantastic views of the Hudson River, leading up to Bear Mtn Park, West Mtn, and West Point. It was one of the prettiest scenes I have seen looking down on a water and city area. Far prettier than Harper's Ferry. After much up and down over more rocks, got to the top of Bear Mtn State Park-where there is a tower build back in the 20s or 30s. Beautiful spot with great views from the boulders on top of the mtn. The tower had closed for the day, so we decided to check it out the next day, as this was our end point for tonight. So, down to the city of Fort Montgomery near West Point, found a room at the Econolodge, got dinner and settled in for the night. Weather a little better-but now we have AC. AHH!
August 4 Mile 1375
We ate a cereal breakfast on our front porch of the cabin from our food bag. Like normal camping. It felt like it was going to be a very hot day-which it was. Today was jagged! Rocks and many ups and downs for many miles. Went up by Mombasha Road High Point, which on a clear day you are supposed to see the NYC skyline-only about 30+ miles away. Pretty hazy today-Saw something-maybe we did see it? Not real sure. It was such a rocky, hilly up and down day, that after about 13 miles we were done in for the day. Crossed NY Thruway 87, and there was my Sweety to meet us with my older son who had flown in from the West Coast to hike with us for a few days! A real family vacation. Ate at a local diner, the thing to do around here-inexpensive,good and filling-and back to the rustic cabin. Superhot night and no breeze relief! Makes it tough on our new visitors who aren't used to the area's very warm weather.
We ate a cereal breakfast on our front porch of the cabin from our food bag. Like normal camping. It felt like it was going to be a very hot day-which it was. Today was jagged! Rocks and many ups and downs for many miles. Went up by Mombasha Road High Point, which on a clear day you are supposed to see the NYC skyline-only about 30+ miles away. Pretty hazy today-Saw something-maybe we did see it? Not real sure. It was such a rocky, hilly up and down day, that after about 13 miles we were done in for the day. Crossed NY Thruway 87, and there was my Sweety to meet us with my older son who had flown in from the West Coast to hike with us for a few days! A real family vacation. Ate at a local diner, the thing to do around here-inexpensive,good and filling-and back to the rustic cabin. Superhot night and no breeze relief! Makes it tough on our new visitors who aren't used to the area's very warm weather.
August 3 Mile 1362
Today continued our slack packing by my Sweety that will go on through August 8. Today was a very unusual start, as we got to hike on boardwalks for a mile or so across a marshy, flat area. Very nice and very unusual. Then we climbed Wawayanda Mtn, about a 900 ft climb-all of us very glad we got to slack pack. The trail in the morning brought us back and forth across the NY and NJ border. Finally got into NY state-rarely do we see a official sign telling us we are in a new state-don't know why? Didn't see one here. The trail brought us to the top of Prospect Rock, where you can look down on Greenwood Lake-a lake full of summer homes and boaters. I was very exhausted and hot climbing over all the rocks and I could hear and see the boats on the lake down below, with folks relaxing. I imagined them sitting on their decks and docks with glasses of wine enjoying the good life, but quickly dispelled the image from my mind. Can't do that out here! Finally hiked down to the road to Bellvale, NY Highway NY 17A. And lo and behold, there is a creamery there-a NY version of an ice cream place near a real dairy. My Sweety took us there after a long hiking day-about 18+ miles and on a ridge with a beautiful view of the valley below and sunset we ate fresh ice cream-Yummy!
Then on to our sleeping accommodations for the night-a primitive, rustic cabin by Lake Sebago-no AC and very warm. But a pretty spot. And a far drive from the trail-but who cares when you have a car.
A place to shower and rest before another day.
Today continued our slack packing by my Sweety that will go on through August 8. Today was a very unusual start, as we got to hike on boardwalks for a mile or so across a marshy, flat area. Very nice and very unusual. Then we climbed Wawayanda Mtn, about a 900 ft climb-all of us very glad we got to slack pack. The trail in the morning brought us back and forth across the NY and NJ border. Finally got into NY state-rarely do we see a official sign telling us we are in a new state-don't know why? Didn't see one here. The trail brought us to the top of Prospect Rock, where you can look down on Greenwood Lake-a lake full of summer homes and boaters. I was very exhausted and hot climbing over all the rocks and I could hear and see the boats on the lake down below, with folks relaxing. I imagined them sitting on their decks and docks with glasses of wine enjoying the good life, but quickly dispelled the image from my mind. Can't do that out here! Finally hiked down to the road to Bellvale, NY Highway NY 17A. And lo and behold, there is a creamery there-a NY version of an ice cream place near a real dairy. My Sweety took us there after a long hiking day-about 18+ miles and on a ridge with a beautiful view of the valley below and sunset we ate fresh ice cream-Yummy!
Then on to our sleeping accommodations for the night-a primitive, rustic cabin by Lake Sebago-no AC and very warm. But a pretty spot. And a far drive from the trail-but who cares when you have a car.
A place to shower and rest before another day.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
August 2 Mile 1327
Zero day! Motel! Shower! Food! Drove to the nearby Mall in New York. After hiking for several months, it is very strange to go to a big upscale mall- so much stuff!!! Went to the Apple store to see if my phone could be fixed- no luck- told I need to buy a new phone, as light can't be fixed. But didn't bring my laptop to transfer data. Have to figure out what to do. Really need the I-Phone,even though coverage is spotty.
Saw the movie Salt, liked it . Ate lots of popcorn and drank a coke. These are the things I miss out here- a movie with my Sweety! And the basics. Popcorn!
Zero day! Motel! Shower! Food! Drove to the nearby Mall in New York. After hiking for several months, it is very strange to go to a big upscale mall- so much stuff!!! Went to the Apple store to see if my phone could be fixed- no luck- told I need to buy a new phone, as light can't be fixed. But didn't bring my laptop to transfer data. Have to figure out what to do. Really need the I-Phone,even though coverage is spotty.
Saw the movie Salt, liked it . Ate lots of popcorn and drank a coke. These are the things I miss out here- a movie with my Sweety! And the basics. Popcorn!
August 1 Mile 1343
My Sweety is here! All four of us slack packed today some 16 miles, and my Sweety met us at crossroads and brought good things to eat and drink. She is the best!! Now this is the way to hike the trail!
Hiked by High Point State Park- highest point in NJ. Has a monument to veterans there, looks like a smaller version of the Washington Monument_
- exactly 40% of the size. Hiked quickly today with no pack. Stopped at a deli for lunch, then the rains came. Delayed us for two hours, but then hiked on thru a very pretty estuary type park- very flat! Finished up about 8, a very pleasant hiking day, going over Pochuck Mtn. No worry about water or what to eat, I will get spoiled this week!!
Returned to our campsite and the rain soaked through our old tent.So it went into the trash. So we snuggled in my tent. Worked out ok, but plan a motel for our zero day tomorrow.
My Sweety is here! All four of us slack packed today some 16 miles, and my Sweety met us at crossroads and brought good things to eat and drink. She is the best!! Now this is the way to hike the trail!
Hiked by High Point State Park- highest point in NJ. Has a monument to veterans there, looks like a smaller version of the Washington Monument_
- exactly 40% of the size. Hiked quickly today with no pack. Stopped at a deli for lunch, then the rains came. Delayed us for two hours, but then hiked on thru a very pretty estuary type park- very flat! Finished up about 8, a very pleasant hiking day, going over Pochuck Mtn. No worry about water or what to eat, I will get spoiled this week!!
Returned to our campsite and the rain soaked through our old tent.So it went into the trash. So we snuggled in my tent. Worked out ok, but plan a motel for our zero day tomorrow.
July 31 Mile 1327
After a chilly night, up early and packed up to meet my Sweety later in the day. Short day, about 12 miles. Had to literally milk a stream to get enough water to move forward. Very dry here. Climbed over Sunrise Mtn-just a few hundred feet and went by Sunrise Pavillion, a nice place for a group picnic. Very civilized around here by the trail. Cisco says he always knows when we are coming near a road or a very public facility on the trail-he sees lots of broken glass! Hiked by beaver ponds and then ended the day around 3:00 after about 12 miles at the headquarters building at High Point State Park in this northern corner of NJ. A very pretty spot and cool old stone buildings. My Sweety arrives at about 5:00 PM and all is right with the world! We get a campsite at this state park, by a lake-but not real pretty-put up an old tent my Sweety brought from our basement, get dinner, and relax!!This is great!
After a chilly night, up early and packed up to meet my Sweety later in the day. Short day, about 12 miles. Had to literally milk a stream to get enough water to move forward. Very dry here. Climbed over Sunrise Mtn-just a few hundred feet and went by Sunrise Pavillion, a nice place for a group picnic. Very civilized around here by the trail. Cisco says he always knows when we are coming near a road or a very public facility on the trail-he sees lots of broken glass! Hiked by beaver ponds and then ended the day around 3:00 after about 12 miles at the headquarters building at High Point State Park in this northern corner of NJ. A very pretty spot and cool old stone buildings. My Sweety arrives at about 5:00 PM and all is right with the world! We get a campsite at this state park, by a lake-but not real pretty-put up an old tent my Sweety brought from our basement, get dinner, and relax!!This is great!
July 30 Mile 1315
Woke up chilly this morning. Planned a long day-18.5 miles. Hiked by Crater Lake that was formed by a meteor that fell in 1865, we were told. Pretty flat today, which allowed for a lot of miles. Also,the rocks began to lessen as we get further into New Jersey. Went by Rattlesnake Spring and over Rattlesnake Mountain. Didn't see any rattlesnakes there. By now I realize that my I-Phone is pretty much dead, killed by water. So this is the reason for the long delay in my blogs, almost two weeks now. As we get near the end of the day, we come down to a road, and there to the left is a real restaurant and they welcome hikers. In for dinner! Know that this will get us in late for the evening, but figure we can stop somewhere along the trail and camp if it gets dark. After a good meal hike over Sunrise Mtn Road and Tootsie Pop sees a bear! It's moving through the woods and now it is getting dark.
This is a bit unnerving, due to the darkness falling. To keep up our spirits and scare the bears we start singing songs. Mostly hits from the 80s and 90s. I begin to fall behind as I am the slowest of the group, and recall the old joke that in a group " you don't have to be faster than the bear, you just have to be faster than your companions". So we go on to Culvers Fire Tower which is an open place we hoped to camp, but with the bear about, we decide we should go on to the Gren Anderson Shelter which is supposed to have water and maybe more people to scare the bear away. Finally get there after dark and sleep in the shelter itself, rather than our tents, cause of the bear and darkness. No one else is there. Then realize there is a road less than a couple of hundred yards away. Seemed very strange to be so near a road and hearing cars drive by. As we went to sleep Tunes read to us a chapter of a Clive Kussler novel he found in a shelter. Exciting story! Feel asleep fast and excited cause tomorrow I get to see my Sweety for the first time in two months! Far too long!!!
Woke up chilly this morning. Planned a long day-18.5 miles. Hiked by Crater Lake that was formed by a meteor that fell in 1865, we were told. Pretty flat today, which allowed for a lot of miles. Also,the rocks began to lessen as we get further into New Jersey. Went by Rattlesnake Spring and over Rattlesnake Mountain. Didn't see any rattlesnakes there. By now I realize that my I-Phone is pretty much dead, killed by water. So this is the reason for the long delay in my blogs, almost two weeks now. As we get near the end of the day, we come down to a road, and there to the left is a real restaurant and they welcome hikers. In for dinner! Know that this will get us in late for the evening, but figure we can stop somewhere along the trail and camp if it gets dark. After a good meal hike over Sunrise Mtn Road and Tootsie Pop sees a bear! It's moving through the woods and now it is getting dark.
This is a bit unnerving, due to the darkness falling. To keep up our spirits and scare the bears we start singing songs. Mostly hits from the 80s and 90s. I begin to fall behind as I am the slowest of the group, and recall the old joke that in a group " you don't have to be faster than the bear, you just have to be faster than your companions". So we go on to Culvers Fire Tower which is an open place we hoped to camp, but with the bear about, we decide we should go on to the Gren Anderson Shelter which is supposed to have water and maybe more people to scare the bear away. Finally get there after dark and sleep in the shelter itself, rather than our tents, cause of the bear and darkness. No one else is there. Then realize there is a road less than a couple of hundred yards away. Seemed very strange to be so near a road and hearing cars drive by. As we went to sleep Tunes read to us a chapter of a Clive Kussler novel he found in a shelter. Exciting story! Feel asleep fast and excited cause tomorrow I get to see my Sweety for the first time in two months! Far too long!!!
July 29 Mile 1297
Today we entered New Jersey. North bound hikers are always glad to enter NJ, cause it's not Pennsylvania. Rocks are the same though, but the Kittatinny mtn and the Worthington State Forest you immediately enter are so pretty. The hike along the ridge is so much more open here, almost like the balds in NC. Hiked by Sunfish Pond, southern most glacier formed lake from the last ice age. A real lake! Not like the man made ones we have back home. Lots of rocks today too, but the landscape was so pretty we didn't care.
Hiking with Tunes and Tootsie Pop and having a blast. Came by the Mohican Outdoor Center and had lunch. How civilized, hiked 10 miles, go to a nice retreat type facility and get a sandwich and coke.
Planned to hike another 5 miles, but after about 2 miles we were stopped by a ridgerunner and were told there was aggressive bear activity a few miles up and we would have to camp where we stood, a nice open spot by a fire tower with spectacular views, or hike 6+ miles to a road and camp off the trail. As it was already 5 PM decided to call it a day. Plus my left foot was starting to hurt a little/ guess it still hasnt gotten over the rock hiking from earlier in the week. Bottoms of my feet are doing much better. Now have "orthosole inserts" they work well for me.
Great camping spot though! Cooked dinner, stew in a can and watched the sunset from the abandoned fire tower. And the weather is cool! Windy and into the 50s tonight.
Should sleep well.
Today we entered New Jersey. North bound hikers are always glad to enter NJ, cause it's not Pennsylvania. Rocks are the same though, but the Kittatinny mtn and the Worthington State Forest you immediately enter are so pretty. The hike along the ridge is so much more open here, almost like the balds in NC. Hiked by Sunfish Pond, southern most glacier formed lake from the last ice age. A real lake! Not like the man made ones we have back home. Lots of rocks today too, but the landscape was so pretty we didn't care.
Hiking with Tunes and Tootsie Pop and having a blast. Came by the Mohican Outdoor Center and had lunch. How civilized, hiked 10 miles, go to a nice retreat type facility and get a sandwich and coke.
Planned to hike another 5 miles, but after about 2 miles we were stopped by a ridgerunner and were told there was aggressive bear activity a few miles up and we would have to camp where we stood, a nice open spot by a fire tower with spectacular views, or hike 6+ miles to a road and camp off the trail. As it was already 5 PM decided to call it a day. Plus my left foot was starting to hurt a little/ guess it still hasnt gotten over the rock hiking from earlier in the week. Bottoms of my feet are doing much better. Now have "orthosole inserts" they work well for me.
Great camping spot though! Cooked dinner, stew in a can and watched the sunset from the abandoned fire tower. And the weather is cool! Windy and into the 50s tonight.
Should sleep well.
July 28 Mile 1284
Delaware Water Gap! Hurray! Only one more mile left in PA. Actually, the rocks weren't as bad as advertised. Based on what I had read and people had said, I thought the entire trail would have razor sharp rocks sticking up for miles lining the trail bed, ready to slice your shoes and devour your feet. Rocks for sure, but certainly doable with a little patience. And not alot of extra time. We got through the state in a little over two weeks-230 miles. Don't be afraid of PA. And the people were the nicest we have met. Lots of trail magic and water. A great state overall. We just always excited to go to a new state.
Came into the little town of Delaware Water Gap at about noon.
A sleepy place. Stayed in a church hostel. About the only difference in thru hikers and hobos sometimes is that we have credit cards. You always meet very interesting people thru hikng. Met two new hikers today, both leaving the trail though, one a retired army major with about 5 tours in Iraq and Afganistan. Said he liked the trail-nobody is shooting at him. Another hiker, constantly in trouble with the law, mostly related to drinking and driving. Everyone is equal at the hostels and shelters. We all wear the same hiker clothes, almost all the guys have beards,and nobody knows your real name. It is quite an egalitarian life.
Took the afternoon off to enjoy the little town. Got a package of shoe inserts- hope they help my poor feet- delivered to me- got my hair cut for the first time since mid-April, and went to Happy Hour and ate wings for dinner.
The hostel is nice and free, but hot, as it has no AC, so sleeping may be difficult. Hopefully cooler weather will come and excited about entering a new state tomorrow.
Delaware Water Gap! Hurray! Only one more mile left in PA. Actually, the rocks weren't as bad as advertised. Based on what I had read and people had said, I thought the entire trail would have razor sharp rocks sticking up for miles lining the trail bed, ready to slice your shoes and devour your feet. Rocks for sure, but certainly doable with a little patience. And not alot of extra time. We got through the state in a little over two weeks-230 miles. Don't be afraid of PA. And the people were the nicest we have met. Lots of trail magic and water. A great state overall. We just always excited to go to a new state.
Came into the little town of Delaware Water Gap at about noon.
A sleepy place. Stayed in a church hostel. About the only difference in thru hikers and hobos sometimes is that we have credit cards. You always meet very interesting people thru hikng. Met two new hikers today, both leaving the trail though, one a retired army major with about 5 tours in Iraq and Afganistan. Said he liked the trail-nobody is shooting at him. Another hiker, constantly in trouble with the law, mostly related to drinking and driving. Everyone is equal at the hostels and shelters. We all wear the same hiker clothes, almost all the guys have beards,and nobody knows your real name. It is quite an egalitarian life.
Took the afternoon off to enjoy the little town. Got a package of shoe inserts- hope they help my poor feet- delivered to me- got my hair cut for the first time since mid-April, and went to Happy Hour and ate wings for dinner.
The hostel is nice and free, but hot, as it has no AC, so sleeping may be difficult. Hopefully cooler weather will come and excited about entering a new state tomorrow.
July 27 Mile 1278
Got up late this morning after a very late nite, but still managed to be off by 8:15. Modest day planned of only about 14 miles, but know it will be rough because of the rocks! PA is infamous for it's rocks and this last 20 miles of PA. This part is supposed to be particularly tough. So, Cisco, Tunes, Tootsie Pop, and I headed out. All day, fields of rocks to dance through. Felt like a drunken sailor part of the time, weaving through the rock fields. Had one 500 foot hill to climb, but most of the day spent dodging rocks. You have to put your mind and body on auto-pilot thru here. You know it's going to be tough and your feet will hurt. My padding has been working, but this is a real test. You keep telling yourself, I have done 210 miles of PA, only 20 miles to go and I am going to get through this. No one likes to hike PA. It's dry, and hot and has rocks. And only one view today-"High Rocks"-got to see the interstate highway below. Ate lunch at noon-only gone 5 miles and after 4 hours! Off again after lunch, and it's fairly flat. Rocks as far as you can see, with no respite. At 4 PM got to Wolf Rocks-big boulders and slabs on a ridge edge. No views. Just go slab to slab. Finally down through a rock landslide. Guidebook said this was the southern most portion of the glacier in the last ice age. How about the billion rocks before this one? Where did they come from? Believe I will never see a clear trail again. Then all of a sudden saw a rattlesnake on the trail! Watch out for that! And give him plenty of space to move on. The trail improves a bit as well and we get down to the road and the Kirkridge shelter by 6 PM. An early day for us. Potable water here and trail magic! Ice cream bars from a past thru hiker. Left foot feels sort of sprained, but overall OK. Only 6 miles left in PA!!
Got up late this morning after a very late nite, but still managed to be off by 8:15. Modest day planned of only about 14 miles, but know it will be rough because of the rocks! PA is infamous for it's rocks and this last 20 miles of PA. This part is supposed to be particularly tough. So, Cisco, Tunes, Tootsie Pop, and I headed out. All day, fields of rocks to dance through. Felt like a drunken sailor part of the time, weaving through the rock fields. Had one 500 foot hill to climb, but most of the day spent dodging rocks. You have to put your mind and body on auto-pilot thru here. You know it's going to be tough and your feet will hurt. My padding has been working, but this is a real test. You keep telling yourself, I have done 210 miles of PA, only 20 miles to go and I am going to get through this. No one likes to hike PA. It's dry, and hot and has rocks. And only one view today-"High Rocks"-got to see the interstate highway below. Ate lunch at noon-only gone 5 miles and after 4 hours! Off again after lunch, and it's fairly flat. Rocks as far as you can see, with no respite. At 4 PM got to Wolf Rocks-big boulders and slabs on a ridge edge. No views. Just go slab to slab. Finally down through a rock landslide. Guidebook said this was the southern most portion of the glacier in the last ice age. How about the billion rocks before this one? Where did they come from? Believe I will never see a clear trail again. Then all of a sudden saw a rattlesnake on the trail! Watch out for that! And give him plenty of space to move on. The trail improves a bit as well and we get down to the road and the Kirkridge shelter by 6 PM. An early day for us. Potable water here and trail magic! Ice cream bars from a past thru hiker. Left foot feels sort of sprained, but overall OK. Only 6 miles left in PA!!
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
July 26 Mile 1264
Got up to a clear nice morning-but a tough start. After hitching a ride in the back of a pick-up truck , courtesy of Tootsie Pop's thumb, we were at Lehigh gap, which turns out to be on of the toughest climbs before New Hampshire. 1000 foot climb-but you rock climb over boulders and have to pull yourself and your pack along. It was the toughest and for me the most scary climb of the hike.Cisco helped me up the big rocks. Was told it was a "technical climb" whatever that is? I signed up for a hike, not rock climbing!
Once we got up there it was pretty nice-a open ridge for many miles with a view to Palmerton and the surrounding valley below. This is a Superfund site due to the zinc mining and very few trees have survived. Hiked over the Blue Mtns, found water left by trail angels, as this was very dry country-and then had our best trail magic of the trip to date-Zephyr and Bag Daddy put out a spread for us at a gravel road crossing-Dinner, and lots to eat and drink!! Thanks guys it was fantastic. Stayed too long and then had to night hike with our lights to the camping area for the evening. Didn't arrive until 9:20! Way after dark, but already had a terrific meal.
Long day but satisfying! Keeping my I-phone off to see if it dries out. Hope for good things.
Got up to a clear nice morning-but a tough start. After hitching a ride in the back of a pick-up truck , courtesy of Tootsie Pop's thumb, we were at Lehigh gap, which turns out to be on of the toughest climbs before New Hampshire. 1000 foot climb-but you rock climb over boulders and have to pull yourself and your pack along. It was the toughest and for me the most scary climb of the hike.Cisco helped me up the big rocks. Was told it was a "technical climb" whatever that is? I signed up for a hike, not rock climbing!
Once we got up there it was pretty nice-a open ridge for many miles with a view to Palmerton and the surrounding valley below. This is a Superfund site due to the zinc mining and very few trees have survived. Hiked over the Blue Mtns, found water left by trail angels, as this was very dry country-and then had our best trail magic of the trip to date-Zephyr and Bag Daddy put out a spread for us at a gravel road crossing-Dinner, and lots to eat and drink!! Thanks guys it was fantastic. Stayed too long and then had to night hike with our lights to the camping area for the evening. Didn't arrive until 9:20! Way after dark, but already had a terrific meal.
Long day but satisfying! Keeping my I-phone off to see if it dries out. Hope for good things.
July 25 Mile 1248
Sunday morning. After the good dinner at Blue Summit and camping a few miles down the trail-off to climb more rocks! As we (Cisco, Tootsie Pop, Tunes and me) paused to take a break by the roadside before going up Bake Oven Knob,3 cars pulled up into the gravel parking lot. Could this be trail magic? No-About 5 people get out, one guy wearing a tie! Odd to see by the trail, and one guy loaded down with cameras. Taking engagement pictures, maybe? And a woman in a sort of cream colored dress. They said "hi" and went on. They had no water or packs. Strange to see. We followed behind to Bake Oven Knob, and then one of them turned to us and said, "Would you like to attend our wedding?" We declined as we were not dressed for the occasion. But it was a very nice venue, and the price was certainly right. Hopefully, they will have a very happy life.
Today we had lots of boulders and rocks to negotiate. Very tiring and not many views. After lunchtime we were on a ridge and heard the thunder and saw the lightening. A big storm was coming through! Turned out to be about the biggest thunderstorm we had experienced. The rain poured down for 90 minutes, as we hiked the ridge. It was like being in a hurricane-with winds and water coming sideways. Later learned there were tornadoes sighted. This actually was an area with views, but we didn't see any as we kept our heads down and and kept moving forward. Like I said before-out here you hike or die, or something like that. Everything we had was soaked through.
Finally got to the road near Palmerton, PA, where my fraternity brother, Jim Kessack, had graciously offered to pick us up so we could go to town, get reuppplied, and spend the night at the Jail Hostel. Built as a jail, but never used for that purpose, we were told. As I went for my I-phone to call-Bad news! The rain had somehow gotten into the sealed baggie where it was stored and the phone was wet on the inside and would not turn on! Hopefully it will work again.
Luckily I carry my spare Verizon phone. Jim met us with libations and the weather cleared and we were off to Palmerton. It was a very nice town and the the hostel was nice and free. And had hot showers! They had a very hot boiler room there, so we could put all our gear there to dry off and it surely did! After a tough day, we had a very pleasant night and it was great to see Jim again after many years.
Sunday morning. After the good dinner at Blue Summit and camping a few miles down the trail-off to climb more rocks! As we (Cisco, Tootsie Pop, Tunes and me) paused to take a break by the roadside before going up Bake Oven Knob,3 cars pulled up into the gravel parking lot. Could this be trail magic? No-About 5 people get out, one guy wearing a tie! Odd to see by the trail, and one guy loaded down with cameras. Taking engagement pictures, maybe? And a woman in a sort of cream colored dress. They said "hi" and went on. They had no water or packs. Strange to see. We followed behind to Bake Oven Knob, and then one of them turned to us and said, "Would you like to attend our wedding?" We declined as we were not dressed for the occasion. But it was a very nice venue, and the price was certainly right. Hopefully, they will have a very happy life.
Today we had lots of boulders and rocks to negotiate. Very tiring and not many views. After lunchtime we were on a ridge and heard the thunder and saw the lightening. A big storm was coming through! Turned out to be about the biggest thunderstorm we had experienced. The rain poured down for 90 minutes, as we hiked the ridge. It was like being in a hurricane-with winds and water coming sideways. Later learned there were tornadoes sighted. This actually was an area with views, but we didn't see any as we kept our heads down and and kept moving forward. Like I said before-out here you hike or die, or something like that. Everything we had was soaked through.
Finally got to the road near Palmerton, PA, where my fraternity brother, Jim Kessack, had graciously offered to pick us up so we could go to town, get reuppplied, and spend the night at the Jail Hostel. Built as a jail, but never used for that purpose, we were told. As I went for my I-phone to call-Bad news! The rain had somehow gotten into the sealed baggie where it was stored and the phone was wet on the inside and would not turn on! Hopefully it will work again.
Luckily I carry my spare Verizon phone. Jim met us with libations and the weather cleared and we were off to Palmerton. It was a very nice town and the the hostel was nice and free. And had hot showers! They had a very hot boiler room there, so we could put all our gear there to dry off and it surely did! After a tough day, we had a very pleasant night and it was great to see Jim again after many years.
Friday, August 6, 2010
July 24 Mile 1236
Hot! Very hot! Probably mid 90s and very humid. Feel like I'm at home in Georgia and not in the Pennsylvania woods. Wisely decided on a modest hiking day, due to water availability and the uncertainy on the amount of rocks and boulders we would have to climb around and through. The choice was the right one, as tomorrow we come up on lots of rocky places, so we are told.
So, today, we hiked with Tunes and Tootsie Pops and went up a ridge to Dan's Pulpit, 1600 feet, which had a little view of the valley below. We couldn't linger there long, as the site was full of bees. So off we trudged, thru the green tunnel and over lots of rocks- big and very big. It's actually fun to go boulder to boulder. Some people go crazy on the trail in Pa because of this. We had some trail magic last week and the person who left it wrote a note that many people quit the trail in Pa, due to the rocks, I suppose, and the general monotony of the landscape. We've been in Pa for about 180 miles, and only have about 50 to go. And it will be slow- probably take us 4 more days to get through. That's our plan anyway.
I always thought gnats were a southern thing. Nope- they are everywhere we have been on the trail. Other bugs, too, have been with us throughout. We have lots of Daddy Long Leg spiders, lots of the big black ants- the ones that eat their way through trees, small biting ones as well, all kinds of spiders, ( you walk through their webs across the trail in the mornings, so don't be first in line on hiking) biting no-see-ums, and of course ticks and Mosquitos.
But it's the gnats that are the most annoying. We have had them since the second day out. As you hike, they buzz your ears, you want to brush them away, but your hands are full of your walking poles, so you are trying to shoo them away and not stick yourself with the pole. Then they go for the moist spots on your face- you eyes, nose, and ears. Going into my eyes is the worst. And they tend to send up one gnat at a time to torture us. Where do they come from and why are they everywhere on the trail? This is why so many like to hike in the winter, and why some leave the trail. They are maddening.
Due to the heat took a long break at lunch and actually fell asleep at the Allentown Shelter. Hiked on and had a nice surprise 4 miles later at about 5:30. Came to a highway, and there was a resturant- Blue Mtn Summit- said hikers were welcome, but we had to clean up first- said it was "fine dining night". Sometimes resturants along the way aren't real crazy about us- like in Port Clinton- they think of us as "hiker trash", and, I must admit,a few hikers are inconsiderate. But most of us are normal folks with an extra layer of dirt and a shirt that's a little sweaty ( well alot, actually ). In one town the restaurant stuck us in a side room, away from regular people.
Anyway, the dinner was great, we ate, and hiked another two miles to our camping spot, Tripoli Camping area, getting here just as it was getting dark.
A hot day, but a good day.
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Hot! Very hot! Probably mid 90s and very humid. Feel like I'm at home in Georgia and not in the Pennsylvania woods. Wisely decided on a modest hiking day, due to water availability and the uncertainy on the amount of rocks and boulders we would have to climb around and through. The choice was the right one, as tomorrow we come up on lots of rocky places, so we are told.
So, today, we hiked with Tunes and Tootsie Pops and went up a ridge to Dan's Pulpit, 1600 feet, which had a little view of the valley below. We couldn't linger there long, as the site was full of bees. So off we trudged, thru the green tunnel and over lots of rocks- big and very big. It's actually fun to go boulder to boulder. Some people go crazy on the trail in Pa because of this. We had some trail magic last week and the person who left it wrote a note that many people quit the trail in Pa, due to the rocks, I suppose, and the general monotony of the landscape. We've been in Pa for about 180 miles, and only have about 50 to go. And it will be slow- probably take us 4 more days to get through. That's our plan anyway.
I always thought gnats were a southern thing. Nope- they are everywhere we have been on the trail. Other bugs, too, have been with us throughout. We have lots of Daddy Long Leg spiders, lots of the big black ants- the ones that eat their way through trees, small biting ones as well, all kinds of spiders, ( you walk through their webs across the trail in the mornings, so don't be first in line on hiking) biting no-see-ums, and of course ticks and Mosquitos.
But it's the gnats that are the most annoying. We have had them since the second day out. As you hike, they buzz your ears, you want to brush them away, but your hands are full of your walking poles, so you are trying to shoo them away and not stick yourself with the pole. Then they go for the moist spots on your face- you eyes, nose, and ears. Going into my eyes is the worst. And they tend to send up one gnat at a time to torture us. Where do they come from and why are they everywhere on the trail? This is why so many like to hike in the winter, and why some leave the trail. They are maddening.
Due to the heat took a long break at lunch and actually fell asleep at the Allentown Shelter. Hiked on and had a nice surprise 4 miles later at about 5:30. Came to a highway, and there was a resturant- Blue Mtn Summit- said hikers were welcome, but we had to clean up first- said it was "fine dining night". Sometimes resturants along the way aren't real crazy about us- like in Port Clinton- they think of us as "hiker trash", and, I must admit,a few hikers are inconsiderate. But most of us are normal folks with an extra layer of dirt and a shirt that's a little sweaty ( well alot, actually ). In one town the restaurant stuck us in a side room, away from regular people.
Anyway, the dinner was great, we ate, and hiked another two miles to our camping spot, Tripoli Camping area, getting here just as it was getting dark.
A hot day, but a good day.
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July 23 Mile 1223
Hiked out of Port Clinton this morning and don't miss it. It's always fun to come into a town after being on the trail for several days. When it's this hot, you want to take a shower and do laundry. You look forward to meals that aren't in a pouch and have fresh produce and mayonaise on them. And of course something cool to drink. But after a little while, you long for what you came out here to do- hike the AT- and as long as all the body parts are working ok, you want to keep walking. And camping. My new shoes worked pretty well today. Probably not the best for long distance hiking, since they are like sandals, but, hey isn't that what all the people wore in ancient times and they had to walk alot. Anyway, we hiked 15 miles today and these shoes do not press on the sore spots of my feet below the area of the toe next to the big toe. Maybe now with time those areas can heal. Left foot is great, right foot still has an old problem of achiness below the big toe, but I had that before I ever came out here. Worn some insoles for the first 600 miles and had no problem. Been a problem ever since. Have ordered some of the same insoles and should have them next week. Hopefully they will help as well. You have to solve these problems as you go, because you have no alternative unless you want to leave the trail, and our time is getting more limited as we go.
Today we hiked with our friends Tunes and Tootsie Pops. It is great to be hiking with them again.
Again, the trail took us up on a low ridge, about 1000 feet above the valley below, and we walked the ridge all day. But we did have some interesting sights. First, lots of big rocks and even boulders to climb over. Alot more of that to come we are told. Then two views!! The Pulpit and the Pinnacle, rocky overlooks. We are told these are some of the best views in PA. What you see is the valley below. I'll be nice and say no more.
But we did see something much more interesting- rattlesnakes! My first sighting of the trip. As I was hiking along bringing up the rear as usual, Cisco, Tunes, and Tootsie Pops were far ahead, I fortunately stopped to heed nature's call, and when I resumed hiking, I Iooked up the trail and saw four hikers coming about 50 yards away. Suddenly the first hiker jumped back about 5 feet and said "rattlesnake" and you could hear the rattles. We all froze and finally I could see him slither across the trail, and he was at least 4 feet long. Finally we all resumed our hike, as I went by him, very quickly, he didn't look very happy. Not much later, when I caught up with the rest of my group at the Pinnacle, Cisco and I went to see the view, and there was another rattler, 4-5 feet long. I actually got his picture then got out if there.
The rest if the day's hike was not eventful, the trail went from being rocks and boulders to a well maintained country road. Very nice, but very unexpected. Hiked down to a really nice Shelter-Eckville-actually someone's backyard. Solar shower- very cold, but on a hot day it felt good to cool off- fresh water, and the owner gave us frozen Popsicles! So good!
Camped in the yard, made our dinner and the rain began to fall. Jumped into the tents and another hiking day closes.
It was four months ago today when we started at Springer! The time does fly out here. October 15, when the park closes in Maine, will be here before we know it. I hope we run out of miles before we run out of calendar.
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Hiked out of Port Clinton this morning and don't miss it. It's always fun to come into a town after being on the trail for several days. When it's this hot, you want to take a shower and do laundry. You look forward to meals that aren't in a pouch and have fresh produce and mayonaise on them. And of course something cool to drink. But after a little while, you long for what you came out here to do- hike the AT- and as long as all the body parts are working ok, you want to keep walking. And camping. My new shoes worked pretty well today. Probably not the best for long distance hiking, since they are like sandals, but, hey isn't that what all the people wore in ancient times and they had to walk alot. Anyway, we hiked 15 miles today and these shoes do not press on the sore spots of my feet below the area of the toe next to the big toe. Maybe now with time those areas can heal. Left foot is great, right foot still has an old problem of achiness below the big toe, but I had that before I ever came out here. Worn some insoles for the first 600 miles and had no problem. Been a problem ever since. Have ordered some of the same insoles and should have them next week. Hopefully they will help as well. You have to solve these problems as you go, because you have no alternative unless you want to leave the trail, and our time is getting more limited as we go.
Today we hiked with our friends Tunes and Tootsie Pops. It is great to be hiking with them again.
Again, the trail took us up on a low ridge, about 1000 feet above the valley below, and we walked the ridge all day. But we did have some interesting sights. First, lots of big rocks and even boulders to climb over. Alot more of that to come we are told. Then two views!! The Pulpit and the Pinnacle, rocky overlooks. We are told these are some of the best views in PA. What you see is the valley below. I'll be nice and say no more.
But we did see something much more interesting- rattlesnakes! My first sighting of the trip. As I was hiking along bringing up the rear as usual, Cisco, Tunes, and Tootsie Pops were far ahead, I fortunately stopped to heed nature's call, and when I resumed hiking, I Iooked up the trail and saw four hikers coming about 50 yards away. Suddenly the first hiker jumped back about 5 feet and said "rattlesnake" and you could hear the rattles. We all froze and finally I could see him slither across the trail, and he was at least 4 feet long. Finally we all resumed our hike, as I went by him, very quickly, he didn't look very happy. Not much later, when I caught up with the rest of my group at the Pinnacle, Cisco and I went to see the view, and there was another rattler, 4-5 feet long. I actually got his picture then got out if there.
The rest if the day's hike was not eventful, the trail went from being rocks and boulders to a well maintained country road. Very nice, but very unexpected. Hiked down to a really nice Shelter-Eckville-actually someone's backyard. Solar shower- very cold, but on a hot day it felt good to cool off- fresh water, and the owner gave us frozen Popsicles! So good!
Camped in the yard, made our dinner and the rain began to fall. Jumped into the tents and another hiking day closes.
It was four months ago today when we started at Springer! The time does fly out here. October 15, when the park closes in Maine, will be here before we know it. I hope we run out of miles before we run out of calendar.
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July 22 Mile 1208
Sad news today from home. Our cat, Suki, that we have had for 14 years had an aneurism, and my Sweety had to have her put to sleep. This is the bad part about being on the trail. Things happen back home that you want to be a part of, and you are pretty much powerless to do anything. I wish very much that I could have been with my wife during this, but here we are, 1200 hiking miles away. Suki was a very sweet cat, and we will miss her terribly.
Port Clinton is not much of a place, actually. We did walk to breakfast about a mile away, then I spent the morning trying to arrange a ride to the superbig, as it turns out, Cabela outdoor store that is about 2 miles away. It's funny, but I'll hike 18 miles in the woods, but try all I can to avoid hiking miles that don't count in town. Never could find a ride, so walked up busy Hiway 61 to Hamburg. Got to the store and it is massive. Full of all these stuffed wild animals people have shot all over the world- elephants to every bear you can imagine. They even have a setting of animals from every continent. Spent a couple of hours there trying to pick out new footgear. Finally found an sandal type shoe, odd for hiking, but it was the only one where the sole didn't press on my sore spot on my right foot. We'll see how it goes. Just have 970 miles or so to go, I guess I can just keep buying shoes every 100 miles or so.
After the store got a short ride to a Shell station to get some resupply to make the 40 mile hike to Palmerton, starting tomorrow.
Asked a young kid if he could give us a ride back to our hotel, he said he wasn't going that way, but a couple in a RV said, "Hop in" and gave us a ride back. They were super nice and we were super appreciative. To have no car in America is a very weird thing.
Once home I will never take my vehicle for granted again.
Had some good news this afternoon, our supernice hiking friends Tunes and Tootsie Pops are back on the Trail!!
Tunes ankle is all healed and they are here to start back up with us in the morning. It is great to see them again!
We had dinner with them and Tootsie Pops Mom. They are such nice people!
Lots of folks have to leave the trail for a variety of reasons, you just make up the missing miles later. As I mentioned before, you have a full year to be a thru hiker. So I have til March 22, 2011. As much fun as this is, I hope not to be out here that long! It gets pretty cold up north.
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Sad news today from home. Our cat, Suki, that we have had for 14 years had an aneurism, and my Sweety had to have her put to sleep. This is the bad part about being on the trail. Things happen back home that you want to be a part of, and you are pretty much powerless to do anything. I wish very much that I could have been with my wife during this, but here we are, 1200 hiking miles away. Suki was a very sweet cat, and we will miss her terribly.
Port Clinton is not much of a place, actually. We did walk to breakfast about a mile away, then I spent the morning trying to arrange a ride to the superbig, as it turns out, Cabela outdoor store that is about 2 miles away. It's funny, but I'll hike 18 miles in the woods, but try all I can to avoid hiking miles that don't count in town. Never could find a ride, so walked up busy Hiway 61 to Hamburg. Got to the store and it is massive. Full of all these stuffed wild animals people have shot all over the world- elephants to every bear you can imagine. They even have a setting of animals from every continent. Spent a couple of hours there trying to pick out new footgear. Finally found an sandal type shoe, odd for hiking, but it was the only one where the sole didn't press on my sore spot on my right foot. We'll see how it goes. Just have 970 miles or so to go, I guess I can just keep buying shoes every 100 miles or so.
After the store got a short ride to a Shell station to get some resupply to make the 40 mile hike to Palmerton, starting tomorrow.
Asked a young kid if he could give us a ride back to our hotel, he said he wasn't going that way, but a couple in a RV said, "Hop in" and gave us a ride back. They were super nice and we were super appreciative. To have no car in America is a very weird thing.
Once home I will never take my vehicle for granted again.
Had some good news this afternoon, our supernice hiking friends Tunes and Tootsie Pops are back on the Trail!!
Tunes ankle is all healed and they are here to start back up with us in the morning. It is great to see them again!
We had dinner with them and Tootsie Pops Mom. They are such nice people!
Lots of folks have to leave the trail for a variety of reasons, you just make up the missing miles later. As I mentioned before, you have a full year to be a thru hiker. So I have til March 22, 2011. As much fun as this is, I hope not to be out here that long! It gets pretty cold up north.
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July 21 Mile 1208
Today was another similar forest ridge hike, but with lots of rocks in the trail that PA is known for. It's supposed to get a lot tougher as we get closer to NJ, but so far it's really no worse than all he other states we've been through. The biggest problem is my aching feet, particularly my right. I actually wore my right slide for 4 miles today and it felt better than my Vasque hiking shoe.
I find these shoes to be "vasque-ly" inferior- bad pun. Plan to try anything here at a big store near Port Clinton.
We did 18 miles miles today, probably not so good for my feet, but we need to hurry across this state. Not very scenic for the hiker. Really friendly people along the way though.
When we got to the end of the hiking day, which seemed to take forever, we had the steepest descent we have had since we began this hike! About 1000 feet in less than a mile. I pity those going up it. It was actually dangerous coming down. Got to the bottom and we are in Port Clinton. Not really a port I suppose, it's on a river and has a cool old train station that is some kind of tourist thing now. Have a park you hike through with a giant pieces of coal strewn about .
Definitely in coal country here.
Taking a zero at the Port Clinton hotel, a step above the Doyle, but the people aren't as nice. Don't think they like hikers very much here.
Today was another similar forest ridge hike, but with lots of rocks in the trail that PA is known for. It's supposed to get a lot tougher as we get closer to NJ, but so far it's really no worse than all he other states we've been through. The biggest problem is my aching feet, particularly my right. I actually wore my right slide for 4 miles today and it felt better than my Vasque hiking shoe.
I find these shoes to be "vasque-ly" inferior- bad pun. Plan to try anything here at a big store near Port Clinton.
We did 18 miles miles today, probably not so good for my feet, but we need to hurry across this state. Not very scenic for the hiker. Really friendly people along the way though.
When we got to the end of the hiking day, which seemed to take forever, we had the steepest descent we have had since we began this hike! About 1000 feet in less than a mile. I pity those going up it. It was actually dangerous coming down. Got to the bottom and we are in Port Clinton. Not really a port I suppose, it's on a river and has a cool old train station that is some kind of tourist thing now. Have a park you hike through with a giant pieces of coal strewn about .
Definitely in coal country here.
Taking a zero at the Port Clinton hotel, a step above the Doyle, but the people aren't as nice. Don't think they like hikers very much here.
July 20 Mile 1190
Long day 18 miles
Today was a rerun day for the third day hiking. We hike up 1000 feet above the valley, and then hike a trail past old farm roads along the ridge line. Today we were above Indiantown Gap Army base. But we have few views. At one point, late in the day we came our of the forest and there was a view of the valley below- farms and fields- very pretty. The prettiest view we have had in PA thus far. This is rich farm country around here. Nice to see some.
Today we came to the 501 Shelter -pizza! The Shelter is very close to Hiway 501, has a shower, fresh water and a nice bunkhouse. And you can order pizza from the hiway, which wr did at about 4PM. It was our dinner and I carried leftovers into the woods for later. Before coming out here, didn't carry much for cold pizza. Now I love it!
We had a very poignant moment while trying to order our pizza and sitting on the side of the highway where the trail comes out of the woods. A couple, about my age, not hikers, but dressed in regular clothes was walking up to the trail. They saw us and stopped to talk. About 9 years ago their son had thru hiked the AT. He then went on to hike other trails, and eventually moved out to Jackson Hole, WY. While there he was rock climbing and had a fatal accident. They told us that whenever they cross the AT by car, they like to stop and walk the trail a bit and think
of their son, as they know he once passed by this spot years before. The mother looked at Cisco and said he reminded her of her son. I told them how sorry we were for their loss. I know they are inconsolable, and nothing can take away their pain. But the trail gives them a connection to their son. I am a very fortunate father to be here with my son.
PENN is known for it's rocks and there were lots of rocks on the trail today.
One spot the AT crossed another trail. Our trail full of rocks, other trail clear as can be. Why is that?
It was a long 18 mile day, so we didn't
get to our campsite until night was falling. Camped at Heinlein camping area, between a couple of small creeks. There was a huge boulder field nearby that I first thought was a parking lot, due to all the reflected light. Didn't get too near, lots of snakes aboug I am told .
Aching feet! Cutting boots may have done some good. Think my footware is just not working for me. When I wear the slides, they don't push on my sore spots, but the hiking shoes sure do!!
Put up tents, ate leftover pizza. Went to sleep. Mighty good.
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Long day 18 miles
Today was a rerun day for the third day hiking. We hike up 1000 feet above the valley, and then hike a trail past old farm roads along the ridge line. Today we were above Indiantown Gap Army base. But we have few views. At one point, late in the day we came our of the forest and there was a view of the valley below- farms and fields- very pretty. The prettiest view we have had in PA thus far. This is rich farm country around here. Nice to see some.
Today we came to the 501 Shelter -pizza! The Shelter is very close to Hiway 501, has a shower, fresh water and a nice bunkhouse. And you can order pizza from the hiway, which wr did at about 4PM. It was our dinner and I carried leftovers into the woods for later. Before coming out here, didn't carry much for cold pizza. Now I love it!
We had a very poignant moment while trying to order our pizza and sitting on the side of the highway where the trail comes out of the woods. A couple, about my age, not hikers, but dressed in regular clothes was walking up to the trail. They saw us and stopped to talk. About 9 years ago their son had thru hiked the AT. He then went on to hike other trails, and eventually moved out to Jackson Hole, WY. While there he was rock climbing and had a fatal accident. They told us that whenever they cross the AT by car, they like to stop and walk the trail a bit and think
of their son, as they know he once passed by this spot years before. The mother looked at Cisco and said he reminded her of her son. I told them how sorry we were for their loss. I know they are inconsolable, and nothing can take away their pain. But the trail gives them a connection to their son. I am a very fortunate father to be here with my son.
PENN is known for it's rocks and there were lots of rocks on the trail today.
One spot the AT crossed another trail. Our trail full of rocks, other trail clear as can be. Why is that?
It was a long 18 mile day, so we didn't
get to our campsite until night was falling. Camped at Heinlein camping area, between a couple of small creeks. There was a huge boulder field nearby that I first thought was a parking lot, due to all the reflected light. Didn't get too near, lots of snakes aboug I am told .
Aching feet! Cutting boots may have done some good. Think my footware is just not working for me. When I wear the slides, they don't push on my sore spots, but the hiking shoes sure do!!
Put up tents, ate leftover pizza. Went to sleep. Mighty good.
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July 19 Mile 1172
Last night was a beautiful evening. Not a cloud in the sky. I even got a signal on my I-phone and was able to check the local weather- no rain. So I didn't put up my rain cover on my tent. About 4:30 AM I heard it. Boom! Thunder! Jumped out of my tent and got the rain cover on in record speed. Dived back into the tent and the rain came pouring down. And the lightning and thunder put on quite a show. Luckily it was all over by the time we wanted to get up.
Had an ambitious hiking day planned. Wanted to go about 19 miles to a camping area in a state park. But water is very scarce in the area, we are told. Hiking in this part of PA is much like hiking in southern VA. They take you up a mtn, then you walk the ridge for many miles, then they take you down the mtn. Nice thing here is the mtns are between 500-1000 feet high, so it's a lot easier.
Today the long hike on the ridge was very pretty and very flat. Lots of evergreens and old coal mining towns from the 1800s. Hiked for a while on an 1800s stagecoach road. Pretty rocky. Hope the had good shock absorbers. Around 5 PM , after going 14 miles or so, we reached a creek that was to be our last good water source for the day. So we filled up all our containers, about 6 liters, plus our gallon tank and hiked off, carrying our tankful of water foe another 4-5 miles, up over a 500 foot mtn, called South Mtn. Finally getting down to the park and a bunch of highways by 7PM. Found a great site, but it's very near a highway. Can't see the cars but can hear them. Doesnt really add to the camping experience. And at dusk someone decided this was July 4, cause there was quite a fireworks display we could see thru the trees.
Worked on my sore feet all day. But then had an idea. When I put on my Vasque hiking shoes-pain. When I put on my Nike slides- no pain. So for an experiment this afternoon, when my feet really hurt, I took off the hiking shoes and wore the slides for about 2 miles. Don't really recommend it for hiking. But, my feet really didn't hurt. I think the hiking shoes squeeze my toes up way too much, even though I have a wide size, a larger than I normally wear. So I decided to operate on my boots. Took Cisco's big knife and sliced the side near the toes to get some pressure relief. Took my foot out first.
We'll see tomorrow if this works.
Plan another long day.
Last night was a beautiful evening. Not a cloud in the sky. I even got a signal on my I-phone and was able to check the local weather- no rain. So I didn't put up my rain cover on my tent. About 4:30 AM I heard it. Boom! Thunder! Jumped out of my tent and got the rain cover on in record speed. Dived back into the tent and the rain came pouring down. And the lightning and thunder put on quite a show. Luckily it was all over by the time we wanted to get up.
Had an ambitious hiking day planned. Wanted to go about 19 miles to a camping area in a state park. But water is very scarce in the area, we are told. Hiking in this part of PA is much like hiking in southern VA. They take you up a mtn, then you walk the ridge for many miles, then they take you down the mtn. Nice thing here is the mtns are between 500-1000 feet high, so it's a lot easier.
Today the long hike on the ridge was very pretty and very flat. Lots of evergreens and old coal mining towns from the 1800s. Hiked for a while on an 1800s stagecoach road. Pretty rocky. Hope the had good shock absorbers. Around 5 PM , after going 14 miles or so, we reached a creek that was to be our last good water source for the day. So we filled up all our containers, about 6 liters, plus our gallon tank and hiked off, carrying our tankful of water foe another 4-5 miles, up over a 500 foot mtn, called South Mtn. Finally getting down to the park and a bunch of highways by 7PM. Found a great site, but it's very near a highway. Can't see the cars but can hear them. Doesnt really add to the camping experience. And at dusk someone decided this was July 4, cause there was quite a fireworks display we could see thru the trees.
Worked on my sore feet all day. But then had an idea. When I put on my Vasque hiking shoes-pain. When I put on my Nike slides- no pain. So for an experiment this afternoon, when my feet really hurt, I took off the hiking shoes and wore the slides for about 2 miles. Don't really recommend it for hiking. But, my feet really didn't hurt. I think the hiking shoes squeeze my toes up way too much, even though I have a wide size, a larger than I normally wear. So I decided to operate on my boots. Took Cisco's big knife and sliced the side near the toes to get some pressure relief. Took my foot out first.
We'll see tomorrow if this works.
Plan another long day.
July 18 Mile 1154 ( I think)
Day 100! By Cisco's calculation, deducting the two weeks we took off for the wedding and the return to Atlanta, we have been out here 100 days. We have 89 days left, before the end park in Maine closes. That's every North Bound (Nobo) hiker's deadline-October 15. So,
52.9% of the time has past, and we have completed 53.0 % of the trail. Right on schedule, I suppose.
This was not a very interesting hiking day. We felt like we were back in southern VA. After hiking 2 miles thru the town of Duncannon, we crossed the Susquehana River. It is wide! Perhaps the widest river we have crossed so far. Glad there was a bridge.
The town is what I would call one of those northern "hard at work" towns. All the houses and buildings are scrunched together, and most things were probably built pre WW II. The RR track is between the town and the river, so it hard to get a view from town. It was not a village, like Boiling Springs.
After crossing the river, we went straight up the ridge, but it's only about 500 ft up. Then hiked Peter's Mountain all day over boulders and rocks, a fairly level ridge for the entire day. Only one or two views the entire day. The only thing that made it interesting were the rocks and boulders.
I was able to better pad my feet today, after a visit to Rite-Aid, so the hike felt better. Also talked to Winton at Mountain Crossings in Neels Gap, and he is sending me new shoe inserts. That should help too.
After hiking about 15 miles or so, our two guidebooks had different information on where we were. Very frustrating, as water is very difficult to locate here, and we didn't know how much further we needed to go to find a spring. It was about 7 PM and we were tired, we saw a campsite off the trail - no water there- but decided to take it anyway, as we can ration our water tonight, and should be a mile or so from a source tomorrow morning. Just can't turn on the tap out here. Water is key to all your planning.
Warm day- high 80s and warm evening, but no rain tonight, so we can sleep with the fly cover off the tent, which will make it a little cooler.
In bed early tonight, it was a long hiking day for us. Not sure why.
Day 100! By Cisco's calculation, deducting the two weeks we took off for the wedding and the return to Atlanta, we have been out here 100 days. We have 89 days left, before the end park in Maine closes. That's every North Bound (Nobo) hiker's deadline-October 15. So,
52.9% of the time has past, and we have completed 53.0 % of the trail. Right on schedule, I suppose.
This was not a very interesting hiking day. We felt like we were back in southern VA. After hiking 2 miles thru the town of Duncannon, we crossed the Susquehana River. It is wide! Perhaps the widest river we have crossed so far. Glad there was a bridge.
The town is what I would call one of those northern "hard at work" towns. All the houses and buildings are scrunched together, and most things were probably built pre WW II. The RR track is between the town and the river, so it hard to get a view from town. It was not a village, like Boiling Springs.
After crossing the river, we went straight up the ridge, but it's only about 500 ft up. Then hiked Peter's Mountain all day over boulders and rocks, a fairly level ridge for the entire day. Only one or two views the entire day. The only thing that made it interesting were the rocks and boulders.
I was able to better pad my feet today, after a visit to Rite-Aid, so the hike felt better. Also talked to Winton at Mountain Crossings in Neels Gap, and he is sending me new shoe inserts. That should help too.
After hiking about 15 miles or so, our two guidebooks had different information on where we were. Very frustrating, as water is very difficult to locate here, and we didn't know how much further we needed to go to find a spring. It was about 7 PM and we were tired, we saw a campsite off the trail - no water there- but decided to take it anyway, as we can ration our water tonight, and should be a mile or so from a source tomorrow morning. Just can't turn on the tap out here. Water is key to all your planning.
Warm day- high 80s and warm evening, but no rain tonight, so we can sleep with the fly cover off the tent, which will make it a little cooler.
In bed early tonight, it was a long hiking day for us. Not sure why.
July 17 Mile 1137
The Doyle! Hikers have been talking about it since we left Ga. It's said to be the coolest hotel for hikers on the entire trail. Heck, they say there have even been some murders there. How cool is that! It's a 1905 hotel that's barely been updated in Duncannon, PA. The trail goes right by it as it goes through the town after you come down Blue Mtn. Owned by a terrific couple, Pat and Vicky, they take very good care of us hikers. They have a great bar and great food, that plus a room for only $30 a nite. What else could you want? But I wouldn't recommend it for a honeymoon.
Lots of hikers here today, and many will stay for awhile. Good food and beer will tend to keep them in one place.
Had a short day planned to get to Duncannon- about 12 miles, and it was an easy hike, getting here about 1:30. Went straight to the Doyle, checked in, there is no lobby, just go to the bar, pay, and they give you a key. Did a Nero day here- nearly zero - laundry, shower, ( bath down the hall) and eat!
Resupplied at the local grocery, dinner, and to bed. The hiker's ritual, for us anyway. All the young hikers here went out partying to some barn. I went to bed. No AC here, either, but an old fan and open windows to cool us off after a very warm day. Good enough for me and the Doyle. And never even heard a gunshot. Nice quiet evening.
The Doyle! Hikers have been talking about it since we left Ga. It's said to be the coolest hotel for hikers on the entire trail. Heck, they say there have even been some murders there. How cool is that! It's a 1905 hotel that's barely been updated in Duncannon, PA. The trail goes right by it as it goes through the town after you come down Blue Mtn. Owned by a terrific couple, Pat and Vicky, they take very good care of us hikers. They have a great bar and great food, that plus a room for only $30 a nite. What else could you want? But I wouldn't recommend it for a honeymoon.
Lots of hikers here today, and many will stay for awhile. Good food and beer will tend to keep them in one place.
Had a short day planned to get to Duncannon- about 12 miles, and it was an easy hike, getting here about 1:30. Went straight to the Doyle, checked in, there is no lobby, just go to the bar, pay, and they give you a key. Did a Nero day here- nearly zero - laundry, shower, ( bath down the hall) and eat!
Resupplied at the local grocery, dinner, and to bed. The hiker's ritual, for us anyway. All the young hikers here went out partying to some barn. I went to bed. No AC here, either, but an old fan and open windows to cool us off after a very warm day. Good enough for me and the Doyle. And never even heard a gunshot. Nice quiet evening.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
July 16 Mile 1126
Feet, feet, feet! Hurt, hurt, hurt. Trying all I can do to get the right cushioning.
Plus very hot today- about 95, and we are very low in elevation, hiking across the Cumberland Valley. Very different hiking today- flat! Hiking along side cornfields and hay fields and crossing two interstate hiways- 76 and 81. Making great time due to the nice terrain, but hot in the sun. Luckily, they have us at the edge of fields in the shade. At one point we hiked in the woods and up over a huge rock and boulder pile. I thought, " what is this, the leftovers of some construction project?" Turns out it is the northern tip of the Blue Ridge Mtns. Out of the South for sure.
We bought some sandwiches in Boiling Springs to have for lunch, and it was a good thing. We were told that in crossing some of the highways today we would have some food opportunities.
No such luck. Only saw trucking companies. Don't believe all you hear out here.
Stopped to eat our lunch and cool off at the Scott Farm Work Center. I was afraid it was a place where they would make us work! But it a volunteer center for the trail. Nice spot to rest in the shade with a picnic table. Got there about 1 pm and decided to linger due to the heat. Had some trail magic, a sister of a thru hiker gave us ice cold Brisk tea. Terrific! Then a little later a local trail angel, Hooptime, brought us big slushies! Fantastic!
We have met the nicest people in Pennsylvania! They have been so generous to us. It's been a great state so far.
And then a cooling rain began to fall. Relaxed til about 5, then headed out to our camp spot up the ridge to the Darlington Shelter. Worked on my feet and they felt better on the hike out. A 14 mile day, but done very civilized and relaxed. The way the trail should be. Had Ravioli in a can heated over the fire. Chef Boy- r- Dee never tasted so good!
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Feet, feet, feet! Hurt, hurt, hurt. Trying all I can do to get the right cushioning.
Plus very hot today- about 95, and we are very low in elevation, hiking across the Cumberland Valley. Very different hiking today- flat! Hiking along side cornfields and hay fields and crossing two interstate hiways- 76 and 81. Making great time due to the nice terrain, but hot in the sun. Luckily, they have us at the edge of fields in the shade. At one point we hiked in the woods and up over a huge rock and boulder pile. I thought, " what is this, the leftovers of some construction project?" Turns out it is the northern tip of the Blue Ridge Mtns. Out of the South for sure.
We bought some sandwiches in Boiling Springs to have for lunch, and it was a good thing. We were told that in crossing some of the highways today we would have some food opportunities.
No such luck. Only saw trucking companies. Don't believe all you hear out here.
Stopped to eat our lunch and cool off at the Scott Farm Work Center. I was afraid it was a place where they would make us work! But it a volunteer center for the trail. Nice spot to rest in the shade with a picnic table. Got there about 1 pm and decided to linger due to the heat. Had some trail magic, a sister of a thru hiker gave us ice cold Brisk tea. Terrific! Then a little later a local trail angel, Hooptime, brought us big slushies! Fantastic!
We have met the nicest people in Pennsylvania! They have been so generous to us. It's been a great state so far.
And then a cooling rain began to fall. Relaxed til about 5, then headed out to our camp spot up the ridge to the Darlington Shelter. Worked on my feet and they felt better on the hike out. A 14 mile day, but done very civilized and relaxed. The way the trail should be. Had Ravioli in a can heated over the fire. Chef Boy- r- Dee never tasted so good!
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July 15 Mile 1112
Started out today near Fry Shelter and left the area cared for by the Potomac AT Club. Really going to miss those guys. They do a super job.
Moved pretty slowly this morning. Warm, humid day. Near 90 and at low elevatons. Like hiking back home in mid- summer. Very sticky. Hiked up and down about 5 little ridges. Cisco called it the "baby rollercoaster". Then there were huge boulders to climb over. Kinda fun and getting us into practice for New England. The streams in Penn are quite beautiful and very clear. They all have sandy bottoms, perhaps alot of sandstone here? Certainly, lots of granite.
Around noon had some nice trail magic. A day hiker named Lisa gave us peaches, 7-Up, and water. It may seem strange to regular folks who have a car and the ability to go buy stuff at will, but for us this simple kindness is priceless. Hiking this trail gives you a very different view of the world and people.
Stopped for a lunch of ramen noodles around 2:00, swore we would never eat these again. Need a better lunch item- we have gotten tired of everything we try for lunch. Vienna sausage, summer sausage, hard cheese, noodles, - it all has gotten very old. Still sticking with peanut butter, but three more months of that may be impossible.
Relatively short hiking day-12.5 miles-probably a good thing cause we were kinda pokey today and my foot- actually both feet were aching- I need an orthopedic foot doctor out here! There must be a solution to my foot padding issues. I just can't seem to get it right. All else is good- knees, ankles, legs; I finally have the endurance to do 20 mile days, but I am still struggling with this foot aching stuff. I cant seem to get the right supports or boots or something! Argh!
Today, we are going to town! Boiling Springs, Pa. Wanted to go a little further, but no camping allowed. Why is that? After lunch we found out, came off the ridge and down into the Cumberland Valley. No longer in the woods- now hiking between farms! Cornfields and soybeans. So all private property along the trail for the next 14 miles or so.
Very pretty country, though, and FLAT. And hot this afternoon. Hiked about a mile this way, crossed a pretty stream and we are in Boiling Springs. First guy we see says, " I thru hiked in 1995, here is my cooler, take whatever you want." Gatorade! And Reese's chocolate.
Went to the AT office here and found there is man in town, real close by, who will let us tent camp in his yard for a dollar donation. He's home and we are set. Down the street is a restaurant and convenience store and coffee shop. Fantastic and such a nice, picturesque town. In the south it's all strip mall towns, here it's real towns. Very nice.
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Started out today near Fry Shelter and left the area cared for by the Potomac AT Club. Really going to miss those guys. They do a super job.
Moved pretty slowly this morning. Warm, humid day. Near 90 and at low elevatons. Like hiking back home in mid- summer. Very sticky. Hiked up and down about 5 little ridges. Cisco called it the "baby rollercoaster". Then there were huge boulders to climb over. Kinda fun and getting us into practice for New England. The streams in Penn are quite beautiful and very clear. They all have sandy bottoms, perhaps alot of sandstone here? Certainly, lots of granite.
Around noon had some nice trail magic. A day hiker named Lisa gave us peaches, 7-Up, and water. It may seem strange to regular folks who have a car and the ability to go buy stuff at will, but for us this simple kindness is priceless. Hiking this trail gives you a very different view of the world and people.
Stopped for a lunch of ramen noodles around 2:00, swore we would never eat these again. Need a better lunch item- we have gotten tired of everything we try for lunch. Vienna sausage, summer sausage, hard cheese, noodles, - it all has gotten very old. Still sticking with peanut butter, but three more months of that may be impossible.
Relatively short hiking day-12.5 miles-probably a good thing cause we were kinda pokey today and my foot- actually both feet were aching- I need an orthopedic foot doctor out here! There must be a solution to my foot padding issues. I just can't seem to get it right. All else is good- knees, ankles, legs; I finally have the endurance to do 20 mile days, but I am still struggling with this foot aching stuff. I cant seem to get the right supports or boots or something! Argh!
Today, we are going to town! Boiling Springs, Pa. Wanted to go a little further, but no camping allowed. Why is that? After lunch we found out, came off the ridge and down into the Cumberland Valley. No longer in the woods- now hiking between farms! Cornfields and soybeans. So all private property along the trail for the next 14 miles or so.
Very pretty country, though, and FLAT. And hot this afternoon. Hiked about a mile this way, crossed a pretty stream and we are in Boiling Springs. First guy we see says, " I thru hiked in 1995, here is my cooler, take whatever you want." Gatorade! And Reese's chocolate.
Went to the AT office here and found there is man in town, real close by, who will let us tent camp in his yard for a dollar donation. He's home and we are set. Down the street is a restaurant and convenience store and coffee shop. Fantastic and such a nice, picturesque town. In the south it's all strip mall towns, here it's real towns. Very nice.
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July 14 Mile 1100
We crossed the line today. The Halfway Line, that is. Halfway to Mt Katahdin. This year it's mile 1089. Seems strange to have come so far. We have now gone half the miles in half the time available. Now we start going downhill.
Last night the rain poured down and did not stop until we got up. In fact
we stayed in our tents until we felt it was letting up- around 7:00am, late for us to get up. It rained so much and so hard that water leaked through the bottom of my tent. One of the worst things out here is a rain like this one where everything you carry gets wet. All you can do is pack it all up and hope for a sunny day later so you can take out everything and let it dry in the sun.
And the extra water probably adds two pounds to our packs!
As we hiked today we met a hiker named Germ from Atl. She was section hiking south and gave me some helpful tips on balancing my pack. For awhile today we hiked on beautiful pea gravel trails. I'm not sure who put them here, but they are terrific.
I must say it again, the Potomac AT Club has wonderful shelters here. They even have toilet paper in some of the privies, or outhouses near the shelter. Some parts of the TN trail didn't even have outhouses. ( no TN jokes, please) Supposedly they did not want to take away from our "wilderness experience". Having people fend for themselves and seeing toilet paper festooning the hillsides creates a whole knew experience for those coming after.
Got to Pine Grove Forge park in the afternoon. It was once a big forge and now all the building are part of the park. Cool old stone buildings. Have an AT museum here. Will have to catch it later, as it closed right after we arrived and we had more pressing business like going to the General store, getting our second lunch and drying out everything in our packs.
Here they have the "Half gallon challenge"- eat s half gallon of ice cream as fast as you can to set a record. Some hikers today did it in about a minute and a half! I just ate a pint, very slowly, to savor it!
Hiked on at 5:00, hoping to find a campsite. No luck for about 7 miles til we got near Fry shelter. Found a spot near dark- put up tents-.ate in the dark-tried something new to eat- Progresso Beef Stew- not bad, but heavy. Have to eat it the first day out. bought it at the camp store. Now gone 86 miles in 5 days- making up for Harpers Ferry!
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We crossed the line today. The Halfway Line, that is. Halfway to Mt Katahdin. This year it's mile 1089. Seems strange to have come so far. We have now gone half the miles in half the time available. Now we start going downhill.
Last night the rain poured down and did not stop until we got up. In fact
we stayed in our tents until we felt it was letting up- around 7:00am, late for us to get up. It rained so much and so hard that water leaked through the bottom of my tent. One of the worst things out here is a rain like this one where everything you carry gets wet. All you can do is pack it all up and hope for a sunny day later so you can take out everything and let it dry in the sun.
And the extra water probably adds two pounds to our packs!
As we hiked today we met a hiker named Germ from Atl. She was section hiking south and gave me some helpful tips on balancing my pack. For awhile today we hiked on beautiful pea gravel trails. I'm not sure who put them here, but they are terrific.
I must say it again, the Potomac AT Club has wonderful shelters here. They even have toilet paper in some of the privies, or outhouses near the shelter. Some parts of the TN trail didn't even have outhouses. ( no TN jokes, please) Supposedly they did not want to take away from our "wilderness experience". Having people fend for themselves and seeing toilet paper festooning the hillsides creates a whole knew experience for those coming after.
Got to Pine Grove Forge park in the afternoon. It was once a big forge and now all the building are part of the park. Cool old stone buildings. Have an AT museum here. Will have to catch it later, as it closed right after we arrived and we had more pressing business like going to the General store, getting our second lunch and drying out everything in our packs.
Here they have the "Half gallon challenge"- eat s half gallon of ice cream as fast as you can to set a record. Some hikers today did it in about a minute and a half! I just ate a pint, very slowly, to savor it!
Hiked on at 5:00, hoping to find a campsite. No luck for about 7 miles til we got near Fry shelter. Found a spot near dark- put up tents-.ate in the dark-tried something new to eat- Progresso Beef Stew- not bad, but heavy. Have to eat it the first day out. bought it at the camp store. Now gone 86 miles in 5 days- making up for Harpers Ferry!
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July 13 Mile 1080
Rained a bunch last night, but all stopped by morning. Stayed dry in our tents. Got up feeling much better after a good dinner and trail magic last night.
Good thing we tent camped away from
the shelter. After we went to bed a large group of 12 year old hikers descended on the shelters. It's summertime and groups are out hiking and camping, but us thru hikers don't mix well with normal people. We have our own hours and habits. Anyway, they didn't bother us.
Had a 17.5 mile day planned to get to a specific water and camping spot. Up a 1000 foot ridge to start the day and lots of rocks to hike thru. Excited cause at lunchtime we would be hiking thru Caledonia State Park, there is a pool there, water, bathrooms, and a Concession Stand!!! Got there at 1:00 PM and I looked across the field and saw a pool. But the concession stand didn't look very busy. Horror of horrors!! The pool was closed today for maintenance! And so was the concession stand! And no vending machines. We were dumbstruck. Back to eating peanut butter and honey on a totillas shell. And water. While sitting there we saw a huge ice cream delivery truck pull up to make a delivery to the concession stand building. We were inconsolable.
But life and hiking goes on. Had a tough climb after lunch to do another 8 miles for the day, and the light lunch probably made it easier on us, or at least we rationalized it that way.
Hiked thru beautiful mountain laurel and rhodendron thickets- hadn't seem them in quite a while. Also the trail was lined with blueberry bushes. Cisco tried one- " how was it" I asked. "Small" he replied.
Today, Cisco mentioned that the further along we go, the crazier the hike seems. Both of us see things very differently than we did before. And we are in all this new territory now. I asked him if he was still ok with the hike, and he said " absolutely, " and then wistfully remarked, "the woods are our home now."
We sat down a bit later after a long afternoon of hiking thru the green tunnel and listened to the birds and stared off into the woods. So often, you are so busy hiking you don't notice the forest. I remarked, it's too bad we can't just stop early every day and take all this in- but we are trying like everyone else out here to make Maine, so we all have to do the miles. Slower is certainly better.
Got to our camping spot and found terrific spring water at about 6:00 PM. Made very good time today for the 17 miles we did. Camped near a Potomac AT Club cabin.
The weather was threatening, so we got our tents up right away, and made dinner. Cisco even made blueberry muffins! My appetite is definately back!
Just like last night, the rain was very accomodating, waiting for us to finish dinner, clean up, hang the food bags and then, just as we got into our tents, the heavy rain began to fall.
The woods are our home!
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Rained a bunch last night, but all stopped by morning. Stayed dry in our tents. Got up feeling much better after a good dinner and trail magic last night.
Good thing we tent camped away from
the shelter. After we went to bed a large group of 12 year old hikers descended on the shelters. It's summertime and groups are out hiking and camping, but us thru hikers don't mix well with normal people. We have our own hours and habits. Anyway, they didn't bother us.
Had a 17.5 mile day planned to get to a specific water and camping spot. Up a 1000 foot ridge to start the day and lots of rocks to hike thru. Excited cause at lunchtime we would be hiking thru Caledonia State Park, there is a pool there, water, bathrooms, and a Concession Stand!!! Got there at 1:00 PM and I looked across the field and saw a pool. But the concession stand didn't look very busy. Horror of horrors!! The pool was closed today for maintenance! And so was the concession stand! And no vending machines. We were dumbstruck. Back to eating peanut butter and honey on a totillas shell. And water. While sitting there we saw a huge ice cream delivery truck pull up to make a delivery to the concession stand building. We were inconsolable.
But life and hiking goes on. Had a tough climb after lunch to do another 8 miles for the day, and the light lunch probably made it easier on us, or at least we rationalized it that way.
Hiked thru beautiful mountain laurel and rhodendron thickets- hadn't seem them in quite a while. Also the trail was lined with blueberry bushes. Cisco tried one- " how was it" I asked. "Small" he replied.
Today, Cisco mentioned that the further along we go, the crazier the hike seems. Both of us see things very differently than we did before. And we are in all this new territory now. I asked him if he was still ok with the hike, and he said " absolutely, " and then wistfully remarked, "the woods are our home now."
We sat down a bit later after a long afternoon of hiking thru the green tunnel and listened to the birds and stared off into the woods. So often, you are so busy hiking you don't notice the forest. I remarked, it's too bad we can't just stop early every day and take all this in- but we are trying like everyone else out here to make Maine, so we all have to do the miles. Slower is certainly better.
Got to our camping spot and found terrific spring water at about 6:00 PM. Made very good time today for the 17 miles we did. Camped near a Potomac AT Club cabin.
The weather was threatening, so we got our tents up right away, and made dinner. Cisco even made blueberry muffins! My appetite is definately back!
Just like last night, the rain was very accomodating, waiting for us to finish dinner, clean up, hang the food bags and then, just as we got into our tents, the heavy rain began to fall.
The woods are our home!
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July 12 Mile 1063
We're in Penn! We're in the South, real or sort of, no more! Maryland was a tough little state. When you drive over you think, "what a nice serene countryside" . The trees hide the rocks and boulders you have to climb over. As I was picking my way through all of them I looked outside of the trail and all was leaves. I guess they raked up the rocks just for the trail. One thing I saw today was rather sad. When you hike in wilderness or remote areas, people with spray paint seldom venture there. Now we are hiking in near suburbia. Went past a beautiful rock formation today that had received a paint job and a lot of personal notations. Don't see that much, thank goodness.
My illness seemed to still be in charge of me as we started this morning. Just didn't feel myself. Luckily, we had lesser hills to climb today. Just want to get my appetite back and my energy. These bugs take about a week for me to bounce back
But, today was a hiker's dream. Beatiful weather, not too warm. Hiked off by eight after a very cool night's sleep. As I mentioned, over rocks, but then after about 7 miles reached Pen-Mar Park. What an oasis! Beatiful county park that back in the day had a big hotel and all sorts of activities. Today it's a very nice park and nice to hikers. Drink machines, bathrooms with water fountains, and pizza delivery! Had pizza and salad for lunch and took the leftovers for dinner. Even had a place to plug in my cell phone for a bit. Beautiful view of the valley below. We stayed there for two hours and relaxed and enjoyed the place. Left there and two tenths of a mile later we were in Pennsylvania! Hiking wise Penn so far in the first 8 miles is a lot like Maryland. Rocks and ridges and lots of trees. But they have the nicest parks to hike through and get potable water, which is in very short supply around here. Hiked til about 6 PM and reached Tumbling Run Shelter area . Run by the Potomac AT Club. They have a big area they cover -about 240 miles. They have a terrific camping area here, which we jumped right on and then one of the local caretakers came by and gave us apples and cokes! It was fantastic. Rain was threatening, so we got our tents up quickly and made our dinner, including the pizza. As soon as we were done, the rain began to fall, perfect timing. Into our dry cozy tents and going to sleep with the rainfall outside to lullaby us. Ah, what a life.
A great hiking day.
We're in Penn! We're in the South, real or sort of, no more! Maryland was a tough little state. When you drive over you think, "what a nice serene countryside" . The trees hide the rocks and boulders you have to climb over. As I was picking my way through all of them I looked outside of the trail and all was leaves. I guess they raked up the rocks just for the trail. One thing I saw today was rather sad. When you hike in wilderness or remote areas, people with spray paint seldom venture there. Now we are hiking in near suburbia. Went past a beautiful rock formation today that had received a paint job and a lot of personal notations. Don't see that much, thank goodness.
My illness seemed to still be in charge of me as we started this morning. Just didn't feel myself. Luckily, we had lesser hills to climb today. Just want to get my appetite back and my energy. These bugs take about a week for me to bounce back
But, today was a hiker's dream. Beatiful weather, not too warm. Hiked off by eight after a very cool night's sleep. As I mentioned, over rocks, but then after about 7 miles reached Pen-Mar Park. What an oasis! Beatiful county park that back in the day had a big hotel and all sorts of activities. Today it's a very nice park and nice to hikers. Drink machines, bathrooms with water fountains, and pizza delivery! Had pizza and salad for lunch and took the leftovers for dinner. Even had a place to plug in my cell phone for a bit. Beautiful view of the valley below. We stayed there for two hours and relaxed and enjoyed the place. Left there and two tenths of a mile later we were in Pennsylvania! Hiking wise Penn so far in the first 8 miles is a lot like Maryland. Rocks and ridges and lots of trees. But they have the nicest parks to hike through and get potable water, which is in very short supply around here. Hiked til about 6 PM and reached Tumbling Run Shelter area . Run by the Potomac AT Club. They have a big area they cover -about 240 miles. They have a terrific camping area here, which we jumped right on and then one of the local caretakers came by and gave us apples and cokes! It was fantastic. Rain was threatening, so we got our tents up quickly and made our dinner, including the pizza. As soon as we were done, the rain began to fall, perfect timing. Into our dry cozy tents and going to sleep with the rainfall outside to lullaby us. Ah, what a life.
A great hiking day.
July 11 Mile 1048
Got up early at Rich's house. He set us up with a great breakfast, and then very kindly drove up back to the trail. We appreciate so much the help Rich gave us. It allowed us to have a really good dinner and breakfast, get resupplied, take a shower and sleep in a very nice bed. Plus it was terrific to see Rich and catch up on all he has been doing. Thank you, Rich!
Back to the trail and we hiked off with a plan to do 17-18 miles. The weather was very good - clear skies and below 70 degrees to start the day. The only thing that wasn't good was me. While I has gotten over the bug, I still didn't feel 100%. Kind of put me in a crabby mood. Cisco was very kind all day and hiked with me the entire time, as I felt I was very pokey.
After the first two miles we came to the Washington Monument- not the one in DC of course, but right here in Maryland just north of US 40A. It was a cool stone barrel shaped structure that you could go inside and climb to the top, like you would in a lighthouse. Nice view from the top. Built in 1827, and later used by Union forces as a signal tower. Been restored several times over the years.
I wondered where they got all the cool rock to build it. Didn't take long to find out- they got it off the trail! All day after that we hiked through rock and boulder fields. People said Md was easy. No easy trails out here, I guess. Rock, rock, rock.
When we stopped to eat lunch, sitting on a big rock, of course, one of the trail overseers ( first time I ever met one out here) told of a great camping spot with water- water here is as scarce as rocks are plentiful. So we hiked on and found the spot under some huge, but dying hemlock trees with a spring nearby. Perfect camping and perfect weather at the end of the day. A place called Warners Gap. Built a fire, made tea, and ate the luncheon meat we had bought the night before and froze at Rich's house. Fresh meat is rare out here, but very tasty!
Cause it was a Sunday and we are in a suburban area with lots of roads close to the trail, there were many day hikers out on the AT. A father and little girl of about 6 years old, wearing no pack passed us going south. As she passed she looked up at me and said " I'm tired!" We replied, " we are, too!"
Later, we were talking to a local hiker and he told us that this past June was the warmest in the last 30 years or so and very dry. Also, our temps in Harpers Ferry were record setters. I certainly believe it!
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Got up early at Rich's house. He set us up with a great breakfast, and then very kindly drove up back to the trail. We appreciate so much the help Rich gave us. It allowed us to have a really good dinner and breakfast, get resupplied, take a shower and sleep in a very nice bed. Plus it was terrific to see Rich and catch up on all he has been doing. Thank you, Rich!
Back to the trail and we hiked off with a plan to do 17-18 miles. The weather was very good - clear skies and below 70 degrees to start the day. The only thing that wasn't good was me. While I has gotten over the bug, I still didn't feel 100%. Kind of put me in a crabby mood. Cisco was very kind all day and hiked with me the entire time, as I felt I was very pokey.
After the first two miles we came to the Washington Monument- not the one in DC of course, but right here in Maryland just north of US 40A. It was a cool stone barrel shaped structure that you could go inside and climb to the top, like you would in a lighthouse. Nice view from the top. Built in 1827, and later used by Union forces as a signal tower. Been restored several times over the years.
I wondered where they got all the cool rock to build it. Didn't take long to find out- they got it off the trail! All day after that we hiked through rock and boulder fields. People said Md was easy. No easy trails out here, I guess. Rock, rock, rock.
When we stopped to eat lunch, sitting on a big rock, of course, one of the trail overseers ( first time I ever met one out here) told of a great camping spot with water- water here is as scarce as rocks are plentiful. So we hiked on and found the spot under some huge, but dying hemlock trees with a spring nearby. Perfect camping and perfect weather at the end of the day. A place called Warners Gap. Built a fire, made tea, and ate the luncheon meat we had bought the night before and froze at Rich's house. Fresh meat is rare out here, but very tasty!
Cause it was a Sunday and we are in a suburban area with lots of roads close to the trail, there were many day hikers out on the AT. A father and little girl of about 6 years old, wearing no pack passed us going south. As she passed she looked up at me and said " I'm tired!" We replied, " we are, too!"
Later, we were talking to a local hiker and he told us that this past June was the warmest in the last 30 years or so and very dry. Also, our temps in Harpers Ferry were record setters. I certainly believe it!
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July 10 Mile 1031
Remember the song by Credence Clearwater Revival " Stuck in Lodi".
Well, that's the way we felt about Harpers Ferry. Let us out of here. The town is not a hit with hikers. It's very expensive, for no good reason, and has very little that we want in the part of town we hiked through. No grocery store, no Wifi, or even a decent coffee shop. Our hostel was nice, but twice as expensive as it should have been. With the hot weather and our illness we were there 4 nights! Far longer than we wanted to be. On the good side, I was glad to be in AC and a bed when I was sick. But as soon as we could walk, we were ready to leave, even though I did not feel 100%. On the contrary, the morning we left I feel rather poorly still.
It rained during the night before we left, and at about 7 AM we had coffee on porch with Radar and Peru a very nice thru hiking couple. Peru and I compared notes on how to help numb toe pain and knee pain. She had some good advice.
The hike out of Harpers Ferry is very cool. You hike flat on nice gravel for about 2 mikes on the old C&O Canal.
into Maryland. The canal was part of a great public works project to move stuff by water, until the railroads came along and blew them away back in the 1830s. Still, it was quite a monumental undertaking, digging all the canals, and using all the great stones for the sides. Still impressive to me.
Maryland has only about 40+miles of AT, but it is not easy. Up and down and rocky. Had a great amenity today-
Gathland Park -vending machines, fresh water, bathrooms. It was too much! Up until Shenandoah never had public parks like this on the trail. The park is very cool. It was the home of a Civil War correspondent and writer. He built all these stone buildings on 100 acres. The most impressive is the War Correspondents arch, dedicated to the Civil War correspondents and artists and photograhers. Also, a Civil War battle was fought across his property just prior to Antietam. We
hiked the ridge all day- lots of rocks!
It was not too hot and we were able to do 17 miles, not bad after being sick.
Went by Dahlgreen state park- glad we weren't staying there - as it was Sat nite, the place was packed and there was no room for us to camp. Fortunately for us my Fraternity brother Rich Marshall had earlier very graciously offered to pick us up just past the Park and take us to one of our favorite places to eat-
Shoneys! All you can eat, even in my poor state, I looked forward to their salad bar. He took us to get groceries and then to his house to bed. He kindly offered me a beer, but, I must really feel bad, cause I declined. Actually, when you're hiking, a beer is not the best thing to be drinking, even off trail cause it can really dehydrate you. Gatorade stuff or water is the best.
Well, I'm not feeling my best. I ate pretty well at Shoney's but I sure
hope my appetite returns. Can't do miles without energy.
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Remember the song by Credence Clearwater Revival " Stuck in Lodi".
Well, that's the way we felt about Harpers Ferry. Let us out of here. The town is not a hit with hikers. It's very expensive, for no good reason, and has very little that we want in the part of town we hiked through. No grocery store, no Wifi, or even a decent coffee shop. Our hostel was nice, but twice as expensive as it should have been. With the hot weather and our illness we were there 4 nights! Far longer than we wanted to be. On the good side, I was glad to be in AC and a bed when I was sick. But as soon as we could walk, we were ready to leave, even though I did not feel 100%. On the contrary, the morning we left I feel rather poorly still.
It rained during the night before we left, and at about 7 AM we had coffee on porch with Radar and Peru a very nice thru hiking couple. Peru and I compared notes on how to help numb toe pain and knee pain. She had some good advice.
The hike out of Harpers Ferry is very cool. You hike flat on nice gravel for about 2 mikes on the old C&O Canal.
into Maryland. The canal was part of a great public works project to move stuff by water, until the railroads came along and blew them away back in the 1830s. Still, it was quite a monumental undertaking, digging all the canals, and using all the great stones for the sides. Still impressive to me.
Maryland has only about 40+miles of AT, but it is not easy. Up and down and rocky. Had a great amenity today-
Gathland Park -vending machines, fresh water, bathrooms. It was too much! Up until Shenandoah never had public parks like this on the trail. The park is very cool. It was the home of a Civil War correspondent and writer. He built all these stone buildings on 100 acres. The most impressive is the War Correspondents arch, dedicated to the Civil War correspondents and artists and photograhers. Also, a Civil War battle was fought across his property just prior to Antietam. We
hiked the ridge all day- lots of rocks!
It was not too hot and we were able to do 17 miles, not bad after being sick.
Went by Dahlgreen state park- glad we weren't staying there - as it was Sat nite, the place was packed and there was no room for us to camp. Fortunately for us my Fraternity brother Rich Marshall had earlier very graciously offered to pick us up just past the Park and take us to one of our favorite places to eat-
Shoneys! All you can eat, even in my poor state, I looked forward to their salad bar. He took us to get groceries and then to his house to bed. He kindly offered me a beer, but, I must really feel bad, cause I declined. Actually, when you're hiking, a beer is not the best thing to be drinking, even off trail cause it can really dehydrate you. Gatorade stuff or water is the best.
Well, I'm not feeling my best. I ate pretty well at Shoney's but I sure
hope my appetite returns. Can't do miles without energy.
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Friday, July 9, 2010
July 9 Mile 1014
Still in Harpers Ferry. Still feeling weak from the stomach bug and glad I'm not hiking today. The temps have decreased and the tourists have increased. Below our hostel each night a guy dressed as John Brown leads folks on a ghost tour of the town. We get to hear his introduction and his conclusion for free from the hostel balcony. He moves on thru the town for his better stories. At his conclusion he sings "John Brown's body lies amouldering in the grave" . This afternoon he was below us playing Civil War songs on a piano.
Time to move on. Cisco did a bunch of detailed trail calculations today, conferring with the Internet, on our past speed and what we can hope to accomplish going forward. Different speeds for different terrains coming up. We have 1165 miles to go by October 15, when the end park-Baxter Park- in Maine closes. Should be able to make it, but we have to keep moving. The next 550 miles is an accommodating landscape we are told, after that is 350 plus miles of big tough boulder mtns where you are lucky to do 10 miles a day-Vermont and New Hampshire. After that, Maine. With lots of miles-and an area called the 100 Mile Wilderness- with no amenities.
I hope to feel better tomorrow for the hike out. But, feel better or not, we have to go. No more room in this inn.
Sent from my iPhone
Still in Harpers Ferry. Still feeling weak from the stomach bug and glad I'm not hiking today. The temps have decreased and the tourists have increased. Below our hostel each night a guy dressed as John Brown leads folks on a ghost tour of the town. We get to hear his introduction and his conclusion for free from the hostel balcony. He moves on thru the town for his better stories. At his conclusion he sings "John Brown's body lies amouldering in the grave" . This afternoon he was below us playing Civil War songs on a piano.
Time to move on. Cisco did a bunch of detailed trail calculations today, conferring with the Internet, on our past speed and what we can hope to accomplish going forward. Different speeds for different terrains coming up. We have 1165 miles to go by October 15, when the end park-Baxter Park- in Maine closes. Should be able to make it, but we have to keep moving. The next 550 miles is an accommodating landscape we are told, after that is 350 plus miles of big tough boulder mtns where you are lucky to do 10 miles a day-Vermont and New Hampshire. After that, Maine. With lots of miles-and an area called the 100 Mile Wilderness- with no amenities.
I hope to feel better tomorrow for the hike out. But, feel better or not, we have to go. No more room in this inn.
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Thursday, July 8, 2010
July 7-8 Mile 1014
Still in Harpers Ferry.
On July 7, in the morning, Cisco and I walked up to the Appalachian Trail HQ about a half mile from here to register . We were numbers 662 and 663. They estimate that 1350 people left Springer Mtn this year. So right now about 50% of those who started are still out here. Past years show an overall finish rate of between 25-30%. They took our picture and put us in their book. Found out that to be a "thru hiker" you have 365 days from when you begin until you finish. Thought you had to do it all in one calendar year. So I have until March 22, 2011!
Don't think I want to be out here that long. Spent some time going through the book to see the folks we have met along the way. It was fun to see familiar faces, many are far ahead of us.
Looks like we were wrong on Cisco's diagnosis. On Wednesday, July 7 after visiting the AT office, at about 2 PM I started feeling poorly when we went to lunch at the little pub to watch the World Cup game. Certainly wasn't heat exhaustion as I had been in the cool AC all day and the day before. Had a stomach bug-yuck- first illness of the trip. Not sure where we got it. Out here thru hikers don't shake hands, cause with limited hygiene, you don't know what you might catch. Every now and then, when you meet someone they revert to the civilized world and extend their hand. I'm no germaphobe, but really don't lke that.
On Thursday July 8 we both felt a little better, but might put off leaving until Saturday, with the extremely high heat still with us. It supposed to cool down a bit by then. So, we are hanging out at the hostel. Cisco went swimming in the river today with some other folks who are staying here. We saw the sights of Harpers Ferry- most known for John Browns raid of the US Armory in 1859 to start a slave rebellion. They have a John Brown wax museum, and a national historic site here. The Armory is long gone, burned during the Civil War, but they have preserved the site and the little Fire Engine building where John Brown was captured by Col. Robert E Lee.
Up until today, this placed seemed dead, but noticed a lot more tourists coming thru today. Maybe they wait for the weekend.
Hope to feel back to normal on Friday.
Sent from my iPhone
Still in Harpers Ferry.
On July 7, in the morning, Cisco and I walked up to the Appalachian Trail HQ about a half mile from here to register . We were numbers 662 and 663. They estimate that 1350 people left Springer Mtn this year. So right now about 50% of those who started are still out here. Past years show an overall finish rate of between 25-30%. They took our picture and put us in their book. Found out that to be a "thru hiker" you have 365 days from when you begin until you finish. Thought you had to do it all in one calendar year. So I have until March 22, 2011!
Don't think I want to be out here that long. Spent some time going through the book to see the folks we have met along the way. It was fun to see familiar faces, many are far ahead of us.
Looks like we were wrong on Cisco's diagnosis. On Wednesday, July 7 after visiting the AT office, at about 2 PM I started feeling poorly when we went to lunch at the little pub to watch the World Cup game. Certainly wasn't heat exhaustion as I had been in the cool AC all day and the day before. Had a stomach bug-yuck- first illness of the trip. Not sure where we got it. Out here thru hikers don't shake hands, cause with limited hygiene, you don't know what you might catch. Every now and then, when you meet someone they revert to the civilized world and extend their hand. I'm no germaphobe, but really don't lke that.
On Thursday July 8 we both felt a little better, but might put off leaving until Saturday, with the extremely high heat still with us. It supposed to cool down a bit by then. So, we are hanging out at the hostel. Cisco went swimming in the river today with some other folks who are staying here. We saw the sights of Harpers Ferry- most known for John Browns raid of the US Armory in 1859 to start a slave rebellion. They have a John Brown wax museum, and a national historic site here. The Armory is long gone, burned during the Civil War, but they have preserved the site and the little Fire Engine building where John Brown was captured by Col. Robert E Lee.
Up until today, this placed seemed dead, but noticed a lot more tourists coming thru today. Maybe they wait for the weekend.
Hope to feel back to normal on Friday.
Sent from my iPhone
July 6 Mile 1014
Bad night last night. After a long very hot day that I wrote about, Cisco awoke about 2 AM very sick. We were up all night. I googled his symptoms- glad I am getting coverage here. He was suffering from heat exhaustion and dehydration. Very serious stuff. I was very worried and so was he. We broke camp as soon as it was light, but he felt terrible. We were thankful we were so close to Harpers Ferry, and glad we weren't some 20 miles from nowhere like we have often been. We slowly hiked to town, but you could really feel the heat rising, checked my weather on my phone- and it was to get to 102 today! Got to town, skipped the ATC office ( we'll do pictures another day) and went straight to our hostel- a very neat place in the old town in a very old building. Luckily I had a reservation and they had a room ready when we got there at 10:30AM. Cisco took a cold shower and went straight to bed in our air conditioned room. I cleaned up and went to breakfast and toured the the town. Walking around Harpers Ferry takes about 5 minutes, but it a very pretty little place. But I think they are under economic stress. It seemed all the businesses are for sale or closed. Don't quite get that. They have a train that goes to DC and it's a very nice valley with the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers coming together. Even have a Jefferson Rock (saw it) where Thomas Jefferson stood looking out over the rivers and wrote it was worth crossing the Atlantic Ocean to see this view. Maybe they had fewer trees then, or perhaps he was a member of the Convention and Visitors Bureau, I didn't have the same reaction.
As the day progressed, Cisco was feeling better, drinking lots of water and eating some food. Went to a little pub next door to see the World Cup game, but the workers there said they didnt get ESPN. How is that possible? I thought every bar in America had to have ESPN by law. We decided to eat some lunch there anyway, as I was racking my brain on how to find the game. Staring at the TV it finally dawned on me to check the channels. Sure enough, they didnt have ESPN, but they had Univision! American networks may not carry soccer, but the rest of the world does. So we got the game and will return tomorrow for the other semifinal game. Since we found the channel for them they told us they will advertise it on their board, expecting a crowd. They then told us we should come early if we want to get a spot at the bar. At least they could hold a seat for us!
Hiking in this type of weather is dangerous we have learned. We spoke with several other hikers who came in here today, and they all had similar heat related problems. Weather forecast for the next few days is more of the same-100+ temps. Think we'll stay a while. Maybe I'll go back and give that rock another look. I think I'll have the time.
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Bad night last night. After a long very hot day that I wrote about, Cisco awoke about 2 AM very sick. We were up all night. I googled his symptoms- glad I am getting coverage here. He was suffering from heat exhaustion and dehydration. Very serious stuff. I was very worried and so was he. We broke camp as soon as it was light, but he felt terrible. We were thankful we were so close to Harpers Ferry, and glad we weren't some 20 miles from nowhere like we have often been. We slowly hiked to town, but you could really feel the heat rising, checked my weather on my phone- and it was to get to 102 today! Got to town, skipped the ATC office ( we'll do pictures another day) and went straight to our hostel- a very neat place in the old town in a very old building. Luckily I had a reservation and they had a room ready when we got there at 10:30AM. Cisco took a cold shower and went straight to bed in our air conditioned room. I cleaned up and went to breakfast and toured the the town. Walking around Harpers Ferry takes about 5 minutes, but it a very pretty little place. But I think they are under economic stress. It seemed all the businesses are for sale or closed. Don't quite get that. They have a train that goes to DC and it's a very nice valley with the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers coming together. Even have a Jefferson Rock (saw it) where Thomas Jefferson stood looking out over the rivers and wrote it was worth crossing the Atlantic Ocean to see this view. Maybe they had fewer trees then, or perhaps he was a member of the Convention and Visitors Bureau, I didn't have the same reaction.
As the day progressed, Cisco was feeling better, drinking lots of water and eating some food. Went to a little pub next door to see the World Cup game, but the workers there said they didnt get ESPN. How is that possible? I thought every bar in America had to have ESPN by law. We decided to eat some lunch there anyway, as I was racking my brain on how to find the game. Staring at the TV it finally dawned on me to check the channels. Sure enough, they didnt have ESPN, but they had Univision! American networks may not carry soccer, but the rest of the world does. So we got the game and will return tomorrow for the other semifinal game. Since we found the channel for them they told us they will advertise it on their board, expecting a crowd. They then told us we should come early if we want to get a spot at the bar. At least they could hold a seat for us!
Hiking in this type of weather is dangerous we have learned. We spoke with several other hikers who came in here today, and they all had similar heat related problems. Weather forecast for the next few days is more of the same-100+ temps. Think we'll stay a while. Maybe I'll go back and give that rock another look. I think I'll have the time.
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July 5 Mile 1009
Crossed the 1000 mile mark today! Into 4 digits. Also, finally got to a new state, West Virginia, for a few minutes anyway. My phone GPS still spots us in Virginia, as we camp, but just over the line. That's probably why they say Virginia is 550 miles.
After our wonderful stay at Bear Den Rocks, we were off by about 9:00. This hostel was fantastic, I definitely want to return with my Sweety someday. I recommend it highly.
The hike today was not bad terrain wise. We finished the " rollercoaster" after about 4 miles, but the day was filled with lots of rocks! They even had an area we hiked thru called the Devil's Racecourse, due to all the boulders. But the key today was the HEAT. Hottest day yet- our thermometer got up to about 95! Yuck. Writing in my tent right now and it is still hot.
Cause this was a holiday for lots of folks, saw day hikers early in the day. When they found out we were thru hikers, they had lots of questions. How heavy is your pack? How do you get food? What do you eat? Do you get breaks? It was fun talking to them.
Drank lots of water today. Not much water on the trail, luckily at the 14 mile point there was a road with a gas station very close by. We got to the road about 5 PM and we took off our packs at a little rest area and Cisco walked down to the store and brought back Gatorade and ice cream Snickers and chips and most importantly, about 6 liters of water for the rest of the day and tomorrow morning. This is a big deal, as these types of amenities have not been available this close to the trail. As we are entering more populated places, this could be interesting. Our map told us we had to go at least 1.5 miles before we were allowed to tent camp. So we followed the rules and hiked on in the heat. About 2 miles up Cisco found us a great spot. Wanted to build a fire, but it's too danged hot! Put up out tents, made dinner and settled in. First night tent camping in a week.
Now we are only about 4 miles or less from Harpers Ferry, where we will zero til Thursday. Could have gone all the way tonight I suppose, but free camping is more appealing. Also, we want to go by the Appalachian Trail National Office and it's on the way into to town, and they closed at 5 PM. It's a big deal to go there, as this is the ceremonial halfway point. We have to go another 75 miles to this year's real halfway point. They are always changing the trail, adding miles and moving the trail around.
But they take your picture and you sign the register. It will be fun to see who is ahead of us, as we lost track of a bunch of folks . Heady stuff for thru hikers.
Sent from my iPhone
Crossed the 1000 mile mark today! Into 4 digits. Also, finally got to a new state, West Virginia, for a few minutes anyway. My phone GPS still spots us in Virginia, as we camp, but just over the line. That's probably why they say Virginia is 550 miles.
After our wonderful stay at Bear Den Rocks, we were off by about 9:00. This hostel was fantastic, I definitely want to return with my Sweety someday. I recommend it highly.
The hike today was not bad terrain wise. We finished the " rollercoaster" after about 4 miles, but the day was filled with lots of rocks! They even had an area we hiked thru called the Devil's Racecourse, due to all the boulders. But the key today was the HEAT. Hottest day yet- our thermometer got up to about 95! Yuck. Writing in my tent right now and it is still hot.
Cause this was a holiday for lots of folks, saw day hikers early in the day. When they found out we were thru hikers, they had lots of questions. How heavy is your pack? How do you get food? What do you eat? Do you get breaks? It was fun talking to them.
Drank lots of water today. Not much water on the trail, luckily at the 14 mile point there was a road with a gas station very close by. We got to the road about 5 PM and we took off our packs at a little rest area and Cisco walked down to the store and brought back Gatorade and ice cream Snickers and chips and most importantly, about 6 liters of water for the rest of the day and tomorrow morning. This is a big deal, as these types of amenities have not been available this close to the trail. As we are entering more populated places, this could be interesting. Our map told us we had to go at least 1.5 miles before we were allowed to tent camp. So we followed the rules and hiked on in the heat. About 2 miles up Cisco found us a great spot. Wanted to build a fire, but it's too danged hot! Put up out tents, made dinner and settled in. First night tent camping in a week.
Now we are only about 4 miles or less from Harpers Ferry, where we will zero til Thursday. Could have gone all the way tonight I suppose, but free camping is more appealing. Also, we want to go by the Appalachian Trail National Office and it's on the way into to town, and they closed at 5 PM. It's a big deal to go there, as this is the ceremonial halfway point. We have to go another 75 miles to this year's real halfway point. They are always changing the trail, adding miles and moving the trail around.
But they take your picture and you sign the register. It will be fun to see who is ahead of us, as we lost track of a bunch of folks . Heady stuff for thru hikers.
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July 4 Mile 993
Happy 4th of July!
It was our last evening staying with Don, and I can't say enough about his gracious hospitality! He made us home cooked meals, breakfast and dinner, took us to the store for supplies, and drove all over northern Virginia so we could slack pack each day. Slack packing is a wonderful thing. Don, you're the best!
The hike was hard, but there were lots of rocks and it was very hot after such nice cool days in the Shenandoah. We're at lower elevations now, sometimes less than a 1000 feet. Like hiking in Atlanta's summer heat.
Today we got to ride "the Rollercoaster" so named cause you hike up and down about 10 mtns over 10 miles, up 400 feet, down 400 feet. It's not hard after getting this far, sometimes we had " rollercoasters" back in TN and NC that were 1000-2000 feet. But it was so hot, that it made for a very difficult day for me. Only planned about 13 miles to get to this hostel folks had raved about, but I thought we would never get there. Cisco felt the same way and told me about some theorist named Zeno that said you can never reach your destination, cause you can only go halfway, and when you have gone halfway, you can then only go halfway, etc. and will never arrive. I don't think that theory is correct, but he may have concocted it while hiking the AT. Some days you feel you will never reach your destination. Especially as night is falling.
On the medical front, while my upper back ache persists, the extra padding in my right shoe is making my foot feel better. We'll see if the outfitter in Harpers Ferry has any suggestions.
Finally reached the Bear Den Rocks Hostel after a long climb up and it was worth the trip. Right off the trail. A beautiful stone home some rich guy built in the 1930s to be in the cooler mtns. Now owned by the Potomac AT Club and used as a hostel and inn. Fantastic! Stayed inside in a nice bunkbed for $15, with shower! Cooked a pizza and had Ben & Jerrys ice cream, the thru hikers meal! The innkeepers are terrific. And you can drive to it. You don't have to walk 993 miles like I did. Near DC.
After dinner Cisco, Ripple, a really nice thru hiker we met awhile back who was zeroing here, and I walked down to some nearby cliffs to watch the fireworks from all the towns below in the valley. Alot of local folks had driven up as well. It was a great show, seeing all the extraganzas in the distance from several towns. I love 4th of July fireworks. And I love that we celebrate the freedoms that we have- liking hiking the trail ! What a great country!
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Happy 4th of July!
It was our last evening staying with Don, and I can't say enough about his gracious hospitality! He made us home cooked meals, breakfast and dinner, took us to the store for supplies, and drove all over northern Virginia so we could slack pack each day. Slack packing is a wonderful thing. Don, you're the best!
The hike was hard, but there were lots of rocks and it was very hot after such nice cool days in the Shenandoah. We're at lower elevations now, sometimes less than a 1000 feet. Like hiking in Atlanta's summer heat.
Today we got to ride "the Rollercoaster" so named cause you hike up and down about 10 mtns over 10 miles, up 400 feet, down 400 feet. It's not hard after getting this far, sometimes we had " rollercoasters" back in TN and NC that were 1000-2000 feet. But it was so hot, that it made for a very difficult day for me. Only planned about 13 miles to get to this hostel folks had raved about, but I thought we would never get there. Cisco felt the same way and told me about some theorist named Zeno that said you can never reach your destination, cause you can only go halfway, and when you have gone halfway, you can then only go halfway, etc. and will never arrive. I don't think that theory is correct, but he may have concocted it while hiking the AT. Some days you feel you will never reach your destination. Especially as night is falling.
On the medical front, while my upper back ache persists, the extra padding in my right shoe is making my foot feel better. We'll see if the outfitter in Harpers Ferry has any suggestions.
Finally reached the Bear Den Rocks Hostel after a long climb up and it was worth the trip. Right off the trail. A beautiful stone home some rich guy built in the 1930s to be in the cooler mtns. Now owned by the Potomac AT Club and used as a hostel and inn. Fantastic! Stayed inside in a nice bunkbed for $15, with shower! Cooked a pizza and had Ben & Jerrys ice cream, the thru hikers meal! The innkeepers are terrific. And you can drive to it. You don't have to walk 993 miles like I did. Near DC.
After dinner Cisco, Ripple, a really nice thru hiker we met awhile back who was zeroing here, and I walked down to some nearby cliffs to watch the fireworks from all the towns below in the valley. Alot of local folks had driven up as well. It was a great show, seeing all the extraganzas in the distance from several towns. I love 4th of July fireworks. And I love that we celebrate the freedoms that we have- liking hiking the trail ! What a great country!
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July 3 Mile 980
Spent another great night at Don's place. One nice thing about slack packing this way is we become like a day hiker- take your own fresh water from home, make a fresh sandwich, and have lots of room for fruit and chips. And Oreo cookies. Yum. Normally our lunches are peanut butter or cheese and tortillas shells. With Don dropping us off and picking us up, we had to do a configuration that linked hiway to hiway- today that meant another 20 mile day, basically 20 miles north from Front Royal, Va. Fortunately, it was a another nice terrain day. We were again in the woods all day, until about mile16 when we entered Sky Meadows State Park. The trees departed and we had nice views across meadows and into the valleys below- hence the name- Sky Meadows, I suppose.
I rattle off these miles like they are nothing- that is not so. They are all very hard. I can't believe we are doing 14 or 15 mile days, much less 20s. It's not monotonous, it can be grueling if you are climbing big mtns or struggling to pick your way through boulder fields. You just have to keep on going. And it's always changing. Someone recently said, there are no easy miles on the AT, and I think that is pretty much true. When the trail goes flat and smooth, you think, ahh, finally, but it's short lived and you are back to rocks or mtns or slabs of tilted sandstone. But you just keep going, cause you want to know what up beyond that next bend. Someone asked me about what it is like to have to hike 14-15 miles every day. Hadn't really thought about it that way and didn't have a good answer. I think it's because you take the trail in little bites. It makes my head hurt to think of the whole thing at once, sort of like trying to understand the size of the universe. Take it a day at a time, I suppose and let that be sufficent. We are out here for 6 or 7 months, and that's a long time to get somewhere. Before this, when I did day hikes, I might do 7 miles, feel exhausted, feel proud and go home. We have to at least double that every day. But it seems to go quickly, and as I have mentioned, even on woodsy days, you pass great rock outcrops, beautiful streams, cliffs, fields up high few have seen, old farms, orchards, and views. If terrain is good, we go about 2 miles an hour, as I have mentioned before. So if we start by 8, we can do 10 miles by lunch, and finish by 5-6 PM. The longer we are out here, the greater the endurance it seems. It's just if my foot hurts, or my knee hurts, or my back, that makes it difficult.
Today we had an extra treat discovering mountain raspberries, or as the locals call it wineberries- Cisco picked them right from the vine and ate them all afternoon. I didn't have but one, being afraid to eat anything out here- but they seem harmless enough.
So we finished up the day earlier than expected, ending at 6:45, with Don picking us up. Tired, but not exhusted. We have done three 20 mile days in one 8 day period- going 127 miles. Never thought we could do so much. Hadn't done a 20 mile day since the Smokys. Others do a lot more, but this is enough for me.
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Spent another great night at Don's place. One nice thing about slack packing this way is we become like a day hiker- take your own fresh water from home, make a fresh sandwich, and have lots of room for fruit and chips. And Oreo cookies. Yum. Normally our lunches are peanut butter or cheese and tortillas shells. With Don dropping us off and picking us up, we had to do a configuration that linked hiway to hiway- today that meant another 20 mile day, basically 20 miles north from Front Royal, Va. Fortunately, it was a another nice terrain day. We were again in the woods all day, until about mile16 when we entered Sky Meadows State Park. The trees departed and we had nice views across meadows and into the valleys below- hence the name- Sky Meadows, I suppose.
I rattle off these miles like they are nothing- that is not so. They are all very hard. I can't believe we are doing 14 or 15 mile days, much less 20s. It's not monotonous, it can be grueling if you are climbing big mtns or struggling to pick your way through boulder fields. You just have to keep on going. And it's always changing. Someone recently said, there are no easy miles on the AT, and I think that is pretty much true. When the trail goes flat and smooth, you think, ahh, finally, but it's short lived and you are back to rocks or mtns or slabs of tilted sandstone. But you just keep going, cause you want to know what up beyond that next bend. Someone asked me about what it is like to have to hike 14-15 miles every day. Hadn't really thought about it that way and didn't have a good answer. I think it's because you take the trail in little bites. It makes my head hurt to think of the whole thing at once, sort of like trying to understand the size of the universe. Take it a day at a time, I suppose and let that be sufficent. We are out here for 6 or 7 months, and that's a long time to get somewhere. Before this, when I did day hikes, I might do 7 miles, feel exhausted, feel proud and go home. We have to at least double that every day. But it seems to go quickly, and as I have mentioned, even on woodsy days, you pass great rock outcrops, beautiful streams, cliffs, fields up high few have seen, old farms, orchards, and views. If terrain is good, we go about 2 miles an hour, as I have mentioned before. So if we start by 8, we can do 10 miles by lunch, and finish by 5-6 PM. The longer we are out here, the greater the endurance it seems. It's just if my foot hurts, or my knee hurts, or my back, that makes it difficult.
Today we had an extra treat discovering mountain raspberries, or as the locals call it wineberries- Cisco picked them right from the vine and ate them all afternoon. I didn't have but one, being afraid to eat anything out here- but they seem harmless enough.
So we finished up the day earlier than expected, ending at 6:45, with Don picking us up. Tired, but not exhusted. We have done three 20 mile days in one 8 day period- going 127 miles. Never thought we could do so much. Hadn't done a 20 mile day since the Smokys. Others do a lot more, but this is enough for me.
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July 2 Mile 960
Another great hiking day and another bear sighting, actually two. Don made us another terrific breakfast and we were back on the trail before 9:00, with a plan to hike about 14 miles and meet an old friend and fraternity brother Joe Littleton who was kind enough to drive up a couple of hours from his home to see us and have dinner at a restaurant in Front Royal, Va. It was great to see Joe and we had a wonderful time catching up and talking about the trail.
As of today we have gone 500 miles in Virginia! Will this state ever end! The answer is yes, in about 50 more miles. One fourth of the trail is in Va. And it has been very tough, all the way to the Shenandoah Park. Had a great hiking day exiting the park. Nice trails. The AT in the Park is about 100 miles long, and the last third was very scenic.
Even saw some day hikers and families out walking. But it's usually pretty rare. Where is everyone! Come hike, people!
Have really enjoyed the slack packing due to Don's help. He has been super with his hospitality! Just carrying water, lunch, and a few other items is a dream. One more day and we are back to reality. But it will be a long 20 mile day! Have to do that to make the road connections.
Worked on my right foot problem today with a bunch of sole inserts I bought at CVS. Made improvements and hope to do better tomorrow. Stil have this weird muscle back ache. Hope I don't have rickets or some other odd malady.
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Another great hiking day and another bear sighting, actually two. Don made us another terrific breakfast and we were back on the trail before 9:00, with a plan to hike about 14 miles and meet an old friend and fraternity brother Joe Littleton who was kind enough to drive up a couple of hours from his home to see us and have dinner at a restaurant in Front Royal, Va. It was great to see Joe and we had a wonderful time catching up and talking about the trail.
As of today we have gone 500 miles in Virginia! Will this state ever end! The answer is yes, in about 50 more miles. One fourth of the trail is in Va. And it has been very tough, all the way to the Shenandoah Park. Had a great hiking day exiting the park. Nice trails. The AT in the Park is about 100 miles long, and the last third was very scenic.
Even saw some day hikers and families out walking. But it's usually pretty rare. Where is everyone! Come hike, people!
Have really enjoyed the slack packing due to Don's help. He has been super with his hospitality! Just carrying water, lunch, and a few other items is a dream. One more day and we are back to reality. But it will be a long 20 mile day! Have to do that to make the road connections.
Worked on my right foot problem today with a bunch of sole inserts I bought at CVS. Made improvements and hope to do better tomorrow. Stil have this weird muscle back ache. Hope I don't have rickets or some other odd malady.
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July 1 Mile 947
Finally saw a bear today!! He was in the trail ahead about 150 feet. He saw us and moved along out in the woods to our left. Took some pictures, but he was pretty far away. I think everyone out here had seen a bear, except us.
An absolutely gorgeous day! Blue skies, cool breeze and a high of about 70. Unbelievable for July. Slack packing today, thanks to Don's very gracious hospitality, driving us here from his home in Marshall. Trying out different shoe inserts today on my feet that I bought at CVS. Need to find a solution to my right foot ache. No final solution, but less ache than before. Developed a sore muscle or pull in my upper back. Not sure the cause of that. May be my pack being strapped on too tightly.
Wonderful hiking landscape today, most accomodating of the last three months. Plus a restaurant right on the trail, at Elkwallow in Shenandoah Park right at lunchtime - perfect! BBQ sandwich and milkshake . Weighed myself at Don' s last night and I have lost 20 lbs since starting. That's too much and don't want to lose anymore. Need to eat more and fatty things, too. Just the opposite of life at home. Out here men lose weight, women don't , weird.
Hiked about 14+ miles, finished at 5:00 and Don picked us up, took us to his house and made us dinner.
This is really nice!
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Finally saw a bear today!! He was in the trail ahead about 150 feet. He saw us and moved along out in the woods to our left. Took some pictures, but he was pretty far away. I think everyone out here had seen a bear, except us.
An absolutely gorgeous day! Blue skies, cool breeze and a high of about 70. Unbelievable for July. Slack packing today, thanks to Don's very gracious hospitality, driving us here from his home in Marshall. Trying out different shoe inserts today on my feet that I bought at CVS. Need to find a solution to my right foot ache. No final solution, but less ache than before. Developed a sore muscle or pull in my upper back. Not sure the cause of that. May be my pack being strapped on too tightly.
Wonderful hiking landscape today, most accomodating of the last three months. Plus a restaurant right on the trail, at Elkwallow in Shenandoah Park right at lunchtime - perfect! BBQ sandwich and milkshake . Weighed myself at Don' s last night and I have lost 20 lbs since starting. That's too much and don't want to lose anymore. Need to eat more and fatty things, too. Just the opposite of life at home. Out here men lose weight, women don't , weird.
Hiked about 14+ miles, finished at 5:00 and Don picked us up, took us to his house and made us dinner.
This is really nice!
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Tuesday, July 6, 2010
June 30 Mile 932
It was a nice cool morning when we awoke. And we had a nice hike out to the road, where another fraternity brother, Don Smith, was going to pick us up and host at his home for four nights, slack packing us during the day and drive all over the place to do it. What a great guy and much, much appreciated by us.
On the way down the mountain, we stopped at Marys rock, a nice overview into the valley. But on the way after that we had to hike thru rock, rock, and more rock! And my right foot was aching all the time!
Got down to the road and Don was there, picked us up and it was Gatorade time! Also went to CVS and got some shoe pads to play around with. Don was a Godsend. Off to his place for a shower and dinner and a good night's sleep.
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It was a nice cool morning when we awoke. And we had a nice hike out to the road, where another fraternity brother, Don Smith, was going to pick us up and host at his home for four nights, slack packing us during the day and drive all over the place to do it. What a great guy and much, much appreciated by us.
On the way down the mountain, we stopped at Marys rock, a nice overview into the valley. But on the way after that we had to hike thru rock, rock, and more rock! And my right foot was aching all the time!
Got down to the road and Don was there, picked us up and it was Gatorade time! Also went to CVS and got some shoe pads to play around with. Don was a Godsend. Off to his place for a shower and dinner and a good night's sleep.
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June 29 Mile 918
Today we got a special treat. A fraternity brother, who actually attended UVA after me, Jack Berry, is with the Potomac AT Club, a very professional group, reserved for us Rock Spring Cabin, right off the trail with a gorgeous view of the valley below, probably 2000 feet down and with a sunset view. The cabin is a real building with four walls made in the 1930s with chestnut logs and a stone floor and outside fireplace and inside woodstove. Jack has done alot of work on the cabin as well, rebuilding the stone outside floor. No electricity, but no need for it. And it's own private privy and great spring nearby, but you need to treat your water.
As we were hiking to the cabin, we stopped at a Skyline Drive pullout so I could rub my sore foot and who drives up but Jack! What a coincidence, and we are about 6 miles from his cabin. He then slack packs us the rest of the way. On the way we pass Big Meadows Lodge on the AT and Cisco takes a break there to watch a World Cup game. I continued on and looked back over my shoulder and saw the Lodge thru the trees. It was an odd sight to see a motel on the trail after all this time in the woods. Like to stay there sometime. Hiked by the campground and saw all these folks who drive right up to their campsites- you can imagine the RVs and other vehicles- plus the accessories people put up due to the 4th of July week. Lots of red white and blue decorations, and tiki torches. After hiking with the bare essentials, it was a little disconcerting, not bad, but a little strange to see all the stuff making a home away from home.
We were now hiking in the top third of the Shenandoah Park and it is quite pretty here now: overlooks, forests, the trail itself- very nice.
Got to Jack's place by early afternoon, he had brought our packs down from his car- very nice cause it was aways to tote them. And he made us a perfect meal: he brought a Coleman stove and cooked us steaks, green beans, brought potato salad, and Green Salad! And pecan pie for dessert! We ate on the cabin front porch and looked out on the valley below. We talked about the trail. It was a beautiful afternoon and evening. Many, many thanks to Jack for such an enjoyable evening!
The cabin can be rented by anyone for only $25 per night. That's the whole cabin, not per person. I definitely want to return there with my Sweety and return the favor to Jack.
Darkness came and we went to bed in comfortable bunks with matresses. Very pleasant day on the trail!
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Today we got a special treat. A fraternity brother, who actually attended UVA after me, Jack Berry, is with the Potomac AT Club, a very professional group, reserved for us Rock Spring Cabin, right off the trail with a gorgeous view of the valley below, probably 2000 feet down and with a sunset view. The cabin is a real building with four walls made in the 1930s with chestnut logs and a stone floor and outside fireplace and inside woodstove. Jack has done alot of work on the cabin as well, rebuilding the stone outside floor. No electricity, but no need for it. And it's own private privy and great spring nearby, but you need to treat your water.
As we were hiking to the cabin, we stopped at a Skyline Drive pullout so I could rub my sore foot and who drives up but Jack! What a coincidence, and we are about 6 miles from his cabin. He then slack packs us the rest of the way. On the way we pass Big Meadows Lodge on the AT and Cisco takes a break there to watch a World Cup game. I continued on and looked back over my shoulder and saw the Lodge thru the trees. It was an odd sight to see a motel on the trail after all this time in the woods. Like to stay there sometime. Hiked by the campground and saw all these folks who drive right up to their campsites- you can imagine the RVs and other vehicles- plus the accessories people put up due to the 4th of July week. Lots of red white and blue decorations, and tiki torches. After hiking with the bare essentials, it was a little disconcerting, not bad, but a little strange to see all the stuff making a home away from home.
We were now hiking in the top third of the Shenandoah Park and it is quite pretty here now: overlooks, forests, the trail itself- very nice.
Got to Jack's place by early afternoon, he had brought our packs down from his car- very nice cause it was aways to tote them. And he made us a perfect meal: he brought a Coleman stove and cooked us steaks, green beans, brought potato salad, and Green Salad! And pecan pie for dessert! We ate on the cabin front porch and looked out on the valley below. We talked about the trail. It was a beautiful afternoon and evening. Many, many thanks to Jack for such an enjoyable evening!
The cabin can be rented by anyone for only $25 per night. That's the whole cabin, not per person. I definitely want to return there with my Sweety and return the favor to Jack.
Darkness came and we went to bed in comfortable bunks with matresses. Very pleasant day on the trail!
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June 28 Mile 906
Hoped to do a 16 mile day, to reach my fraternity brother's cabin in two 16 mile days, but no place to tent camp on the way, so had to do another 20 miler! Whew! When this is all over and I'm out of shape again, it will be hard for me to remember that I was once able to carry a 30 pound pack for 20 miles up and down mtns in the summer heat. The only problem I had was the darn sore right foot sole. It has bugged me for 300 miles now. Have to find a solution. Tried pads under the arches, but the relief was very temporary. The arch supports my Sweety sent don't seem to be doing much good. Should have bought new supports when I had the chance in Waynesboro. First thing on my list when I am back in a town.
But, no knee pains, or toe pains, and very minimal new blister pains. All in all I think things are improving.
When this park was new in the 1930's and 40's, I suspect that since they bought up old farms and logged off areas that the views from the trails were probably pretty spectacular. But over 70 years, it has all grown up, and hiking you get very few scenic views- every now and then you get a break, but it's rare. I think this park is more for cars sightseers than hikers.
We're always in the green tunnel. But this evening, about 7:15, while hiking we got a special treat. This is an advantage to thru hiking the AT. As it was late for the regular folks, they were on their way home or at dinner, not hiking, we rounded a turn in the trail and actually had a view of the nearby mountains, and the sunlight falling on the mtns at that late time of the day was quite special. When we finally got to our camping area, a fee one with real bathrooms, the sunset was incredible- so very red !
Amazing. Ate in the dark of course and then to bed in our tents. A bit cooler today, with nice breezes.
Accidently swallowed a bug. There are lots of bugs out here, either flying or crawling. Got to be careful when you open your mouth. Made the mistake after dinner to breathe, and darn if a bug didn't fly in! Swallowed and coughed and coughed. But the protein is good.
Btw, our friend Tunes had a
bad day. His ankle was no better this morning, he tried to hike and got about 2 miles, but the pain was too much, so he and Tootsie Pop are going to take a short break. Bummer. We hope he gets to feeling better very soon. They are great folks and we miss them.
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Hoped to do a 16 mile day, to reach my fraternity brother's cabin in two 16 mile days, but no place to tent camp on the way, so had to do another 20 miler! Whew! When this is all over and I'm out of shape again, it will be hard for me to remember that I was once able to carry a 30 pound pack for 20 miles up and down mtns in the summer heat. The only problem I had was the darn sore right foot sole. It has bugged me for 300 miles now. Have to find a solution. Tried pads under the arches, but the relief was very temporary. The arch supports my Sweety sent don't seem to be doing much good. Should have bought new supports when I had the chance in Waynesboro. First thing on my list when I am back in a town.
But, no knee pains, or toe pains, and very minimal new blister pains. All in all I think things are improving.
When this park was new in the 1930's and 40's, I suspect that since they bought up old farms and logged off areas that the views from the trails were probably pretty spectacular. But over 70 years, it has all grown up, and hiking you get very few scenic views- every now and then you get a break, but it's rare. I think this park is more for cars sightseers than hikers.
We're always in the green tunnel. But this evening, about 7:15, while hiking we got a special treat. This is an advantage to thru hiking the AT. As it was late for the regular folks, they were on their way home or at dinner, not hiking, we rounded a turn in the trail and actually had a view of the nearby mountains, and the sunlight falling on the mtns at that late time of the day was quite special. When we finally got to our camping area, a fee one with real bathrooms, the sunset was incredible- so very red !
Amazing. Ate in the dark of course and then to bed in our tents. A bit cooler today, with nice breezes.
Accidently swallowed a bug. There are lots of bugs out here, either flying or crawling. Got to be careful when you open your mouth. Made the mistake after dinner to breathe, and darn if a bug didn't fly in! Swallowed and coughed and coughed. But the protein is good.
Btw, our friend Tunes had a
bad day. His ankle was no better this morning, he tried to hike and got about 2 miles, but the pain was too much, so he and Tootsie Pop are going to take a short break. Bummer. We hope he gets to feeling better very soon. They are great folks and we miss them.
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June 27 Mile 886
Whiporwill sang all night and
kept our friend Tunes awake all night,
He's the one who coined the term, "foot puzzle" to describe the delimma we have when trying to determine how to climb up and down big rock piles on the trail. We are hiking with Tunes and Tootsie Pops and they are great to be with. We all slept in late- about an hour- due to getting in so late last night and doing a 20 mile day. Only need to do 13 today to stay on schedule to get to mile 918, Rock Spring cabin, where my fraternity brother Jack Berry, will very kindly host us on Tuesday. We are very excited about that and really appreciate his hospitality.
Left about 8:30, with a goal of making it to our first food opportunities in the Park, and we are excited. The trail was very accomodating. After 850+ miles of ups and downs and 2000 ft climbs every day, it is so weird and wonderful to be on a place where the ups and downs are very shortlived and we can just cruise along. The forest is not very exciting and there are few views. I think this park is made for cars, to drive the Skyline Drive and go to overlooks. The only issue I am having is some right foot sole discomfort- an ache. Really think I need some new arch support there and will work on that. Otherwise, all ok.
Got to the camp store at Loft Mtn campground by noon- what an oasis!! Food, restrooms, soft drinks! Then a mile more and we are at a restaurant! It's a half mile off the trail, but real food in the middle of the day while hiking? I think this has happened only one other time, when my Sweety picked us up in Atkins, Va, about 350 miles ago.
Got to the restaurant and it began to rain- perfect timing. Ate the basics of a hiker- cheeseburger, fries, and milkshake. Need that fat! And calories.
Stayed around and rested til about 5 pm. Lovely afternoon. Hiked out and needed to go about 6 miles to the hut area. On the way a carful of folks drove by us as we crossed the Parkway and asked where the animals were. Told them we saw a rabbit.
Got to the Hut by 8, got dark, made dinner and in bed again late at 10 pm.
Along the way today by the campground met day visitors and they all were either astonished or interested in our thru hike. One child wanted to see our back packs. One woman asked how many days we'd been out- thinking maybe 4 or 5. I told her three months. She was quite shocked.
After a nice 3 hour break in the restaurant, and waiting out a little rainstorm, we hiked the 1/2 mile back
up to the trail and went on our way to the hut. Tunes has developed a pain in his ankle and had a hard time hiking to hut, which was about 5 miles. I felt very badly for him. When a person makes a commitment to the AT, it is a serious one taking considerable time and money. Many quit their jobs, or make other life altering decisions to be out here. You really hate it when a medical or physical ailment threatens your hike. That's why I've aleady gone to see the docs 3 times since I left in March. Hopefully he will feel better tomorrow.
Got to the hut late again, ate in the dark and into the tent for the night. It been warm, but by evening it's ok to sleep. Really glad about that in late June. Hopefully , as we go north, the temps won't be too bad.
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Whiporwill sang all night and
kept our friend Tunes awake all night,
He's the one who coined the term, "foot puzzle" to describe the delimma we have when trying to determine how to climb up and down big rock piles on the trail. We are hiking with Tunes and Tootsie Pops and they are great to be with. We all slept in late- about an hour- due to getting in so late last night and doing a 20 mile day. Only need to do 13 today to stay on schedule to get to mile 918, Rock Spring cabin, where my fraternity brother Jack Berry, will very kindly host us on Tuesday. We are very excited about that and really appreciate his hospitality.
Left about 8:30, with a goal of making it to our first food opportunities in the Park, and we are excited. The trail was very accomodating. After 850+ miles of ups and downs and 2000 ft climbs every day, it is so weird and wonderful to be on a place where the ups and downs are very shortlived and we can just cruise along. The forest is not very exciting and there are few views. I think this park is made for cars, to drive the Skyline Drive and go to overlooks. The only issue I am having is some right foot sole discomfort- an ache. Really think I need some new arch support there and will work on that. Otherwise, all ok.
Got to the camp store at Loft Mtn campground by noon- what an oasis!! Food, restrooms, soft drinks! Then a mile more and we are at a restaurant! It's a half mile off the trail, but real food in the middle of the day while hiking? I think this has happened only one other time, when my Sweety picked us up in Atkins, Va, about 350 miles ago.
Got to the restaurant and it began to rain- perfect timing. Ate the basics of a hiker- cheeseburger, fries, and milkshake. Need that fat! And calories.
Stayed around and rested til about 5 pm. Lovely afternoon. Hiked out and needed to go about 6 miles to the hut area. On the way a carful of folks drove by us as we crossed the Parkway and asked where the animals were. Told them we saw a rabbit.
Got to the Hut by 8, got dark, made dinner and in bed again late at 10 pm.
Along the way today by the campground met day visitors and they all were either astonished or interested in our thru hike. One child wanted to see our back packs. One woman asked how many days we'd been out- thinking maybe 4 or 5. I told her three months. She was quite shocked.
After a nice 3 hour break in the restaurant, and waiting out a little rainstorm, we hiked the 1/2 mile back
up to the trail and went on our way to the hut. Tunes has developed a pain in his ankle and had a hard time hiking to hut, which was about 5 miles. I felt very badly for him. When a person makes a commitment to the AT, it is a serious one taking considerable time and money. Many quit their jobs, or make other life altering decisions to be out here. You really hate it when a medical or physical ailment threatens your hike. That's why I've aleady gone to see the docs 3 times since I left in March. Hopefully he will feel better tomorrow.
Got to the hut late again, ate in the dark and into the tent for the night. It been warm, but by evening it's ok to sleep. Really glad about that in late June. Hopefully , as we go north, the temps won't be too bad.
Sent from my iPhone
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