Saturday, August 7, 2021

 

Paul Burks paulrburks@gmail.com

6:10 AM (26 minutes ago)
to me
Aug 24-31, 2019 hike NH


Aug 14, 2019, So on August 14, 2019,we returned to the
 wild, though Hanover, NH,  isn’t that much a wilderness there.
 Home of Dartmouth, it’s quite an urbane college town. 
 picked up where we left off on trail on a main street 
in Hanover. It’s very civilized walking down the city street, 
and seeing the AT white blazes on the telephone poles.
After a couple of miles, we are out of town and into 
the woods again.
  1. Aug 15-NH starts like a lamb, but then turns into a 
  2. snarling lion-monster of a hike. I had read all about it
  3. “you do 90% of the trail with 10% of the  effort and 
  4. 10% of the trail (meaning the 160+ in NH and
  5.  60 or so in Maine) with 90% of the effort. 
  6. Yes! Absolutely true going through NH in 2019. 
  7. Straight up mountains , no switch backs here. 
  8. Rocks rocks rocks, 
  9. And people complained about Pennsylvania rocks? 
  10. NH makes 
  11. PA look like a crushed gravel trail by comparison.
        
Aug 15-16- Hiked the mountains near Lyme, NH. 
Could only think of Lyme 
disease. Here the going gets tough- 
up rocks, climbing rebar and wooden steps 
sometimes nailed
 into stone, but sometimes missing. 

Aug 17-19-Tough climbs up and down and more rocks. 
Why am I here I ask myself, is this really fun?

Aug 20- Big day- Climbing Mt Moosalacki- 
this was a milestone mountain to climb. At 4800  feet, it 
was 2 mile climb up 3000+ feet.
 And straight up and straight down. 
But beautiful on top! 
Above tree line and we had a gorgeous day with 
stunning views. 
While it is the toughest hikes, it is the most scenic. 
I feel sorry for SOBOs as they will not get views
 like this again for a thousand miles. 
And then they have to peer through leafy trees. 
Coming down you parallel a waterfall for forever.
My Sweety was to meet us on this side and began 
to hike up to meet us. Poor thing! It was an 
incredibly hard 
hike up and it took her a while to meet us. 
Then she had to hike back down! Is
Certainly hard on the knees. 
There is a sign at the bottom that says,
 “Trail extremely tough, if you lack experience 
do not attempt.” Very true! We ran a 
cross a couple who were day hikers and not at all 
equipped to hike. 
I told them to turn back, not sure if they did.  
And quite a day! One I won’t forget. 

Aug 21-22. A two day hiking plan, but one that require
 us to outrun the weather-a rain storm expected 
about noon the first day. Off we went as early as we 
could from the motel, made decent progress,
 but as expected, the bottom fell out and we were 
drenched.
 Finally made it to the shelter-and 
to our surprise it was filled with about a dozen 
college kids 
on their freshman orientation hike and camping trip, 
getting them ready for the rigors of college life, 
I suppose. 
Or just trail bonding. 
Anyway, didn’t know what to expect here, 
no place for us 
to sleep and the grounds were a boggy mess.
 Later learned that they had to move out and l
eave the 
shelter for us hikers. Glad for their
 adherence to the rules. 
Next day hiked out and back to the hotel. 

August 23-25 The trip through Franconia!
This is definitely the crown jewel of the AT. 
But first straight up a several mile trail with
 plenty of rocks and a camping area on platforms. 
Luckily got 
there early to secure a spot. As it was all on a very 
serious slant! 
Slept well and 
Whenever they show a photo of the trail, this is it.
 5000 ft +, above
 tree line for miles and a ridge walk plus mountains 
that last an afternoon. 
Rocky, but beautiful and we lucked out in the e view. 
Just stunning. 
But there are many trails up to the top here.
 This mountain has been a climbing destination 
by the local
non native population for over 200 years. 
Since it was a pretty day and a Saturday, 
the top ridge was 
swarming with day hikers.
 Shod with flip flops and thin summer clothes, 
they were quite the contrast to me in my 
long distance 
hiking attire. 

After a long day we reached our camping
 shelter for the
 night and while eating dinner met 
Beast, a thru hiker from NY. Very nice guy and 
we shared 
stories as we often do with fellow travelers 
of the trail. 

Aug 25- hiking down from Franconia was crazy! 
For the
 first time 
I had to hike 
down a waterfall, coming off 
Mt Garfield. I had heard a hiker talk about how difficult 
Garfield was 
going up. 
I went down and it was definitely nuts.
 It was an 11 mile hike off of Franconia to get to our 
stoping place 
for the night -Galehead Hut. 
A place for dinner and a restful night-our first hut of the trip. 
Huts are nice/ they are hiker hostels with dinner 
and breakfast. Expensive but very comfortable after a long day 
hiking. 
They dinner would be served at 6 pm 
and don’t be late. We scurried down the mountain at the end of the 
day rushing to make dinner time. 
I was starving! We are just past 6 and I will say it was one of the top
 ten meals I ever had in my life! 
Maybe it was hiking 11 miles or just super hungry-it was a pasta 
dinner 
with the best red sauce! Yum yum!!

Aug  26-A good night sleep-aching knees as usual, but they were fine 
by morning and then a very pleasant 
(unusually so) and uneventful 8 mile almost flat hike out to the road to 
be picked up. An amazing 4 day stretch! 
  1. Aug 28-29- After a zero day staying at the wonderful 
  2. Eagle Mountain Inn in Jackson, NH, and enjoying 
  3. the local creek, we headed out for our last big
  4.  adventure for this year-hiking down Mt Washington- 
  5. Southbound! We have always headed north, 
  6. being very traditional in our hiking ways. 
  7. But Mt Washington is notorious for killing people. 
  8. Worse weather in America, they say, 
  9. at only 6200 feet in elevation. 
  10. Cold and windy on top year round, 
  11. and rain and snow anytime. 
  12. They have a big wall poster at the top giving 
  13. the names of all that have died on the mountain. 
  14. A dubious honor for sure. Most of exposure or 
  15. cardiac arrest. 
  16. I was determined to try not to tempt the fates- so, 
  17. with rain predicted, let’s hike down, 
  18. not up, and cover the south side this year and 
  19. north side 
  20. next time out. 
  21. This we did. And only because there is a private auto 
  22. road that goes to the top! 
  23. It was first constructed around 1860.
They said something like, “leave in the base of the mountain in 
summer and arrive on top in November.” And
 they are correct.
We left the bottom at about 70+ degrees in the early morning, 
my Sweety drove us to the top on a 
fairly treacherous road, and we got out to 50 degrees and
 high winds! Ran to the tippy top for a photo,
 then headed down southbound. And it was no easy downhill.
 Like a moonscape.
 Above tree line and a billion rocks all around.  
My Sweety 
was such a trooper she decided to hike with us
 part way, and went down the mike and a half to the 
famous
 Lake Of The Clouds Hut.
 We paused there a a break-she went back up 
with only cairns to 
light you way and we headed on down, 
which is definitely a misnomer as I felt we were going up 
more than down. 
Only a 6 mile day for us, but it was long and hard.
 Made it to hike to our Mizpah Spring Hut by 
mid day and then the rains came. -
A nice place to be inside, but not as good a dinner
 as before. 
Still, very nice to be dry and warm. 
Next morning, out to finish our hike down to 
Crawford Notch 
and if was not easy. 
Had to navigate the Webster Cliffs, a series of ledges going 
down that I was sure I was going to fall off! 
Took all day to get off the mountain, but finished our 
two week adventure
Did not go as far as hoped, only did 109 miles in two 
weeks and was hoping to complete NH.
But it was very tough each and every day.
The rest of NH will have to await another year and 
in the meantime 
we will stay at the top of Mt Washington in our minds!
Completed to Mile 1860!



 August 10- 2017-Back on the Trail


After 5 years of dreaming of the AT and relaxing on the couch-Cisco and my Sweety returned to the AT today where we left off in 2012-Bennington Vermont.  Alot of things happen over 5 years-my Mother passed away at 95, my father in law, a WW2 vet of B-17s passed away, but happiness also comes, as we had our first grandchild. Life does go on-but these New England rocks go on forever!

Our goal is New Hampshire-Hanover actually. Driving to the start up point, I missed the parking lot but eagle eye Cisco who always saves me from disaster, saw our error and got us to the right place...to climb up Glastonbury Mtn. This is not an easy start with no training other than walking the flat terrain of Santa Monica and Boston. So off we go with 25 pound packs- not bad- but for an out of shape 66 year old it was very tough from the beginning! I wanted each day to be a slack pack day-we walk 10 miles or less with only water and a sandwich- and my Sweety follows us in the car. But it is not to be for much of Vermont, unfortunately. It's a very rural and rugged area with not enough strategically placed road crossings. Alas! We have to start off with a 10 mile and 12.5 mile day with pack over very rough ground- much harder than I expected! In fact it was some of the toughest hiking I have done, made more challenging by being in no shape! The hike up Glastonbury is very steep. In my old days I could average overall about 2 miles an hour-but now was going no more than 1 mile an hour on the uphills.
We started at 11:20 in the morning and didn't reach our shelter area for camping until 7:10! 8 hours to cover a little less than 10 miles! I was pooped!
For some reason I was expecting some magical North Woods forest- lots of evergreens and spectacular lookouts. Nope- just the same view and forest I've seen over and over again for the past 1600 miles. I got to hike in the lead and very slowly, with much pausing to rest, inched my way forward throughout the day. Cisco is very patient with his Pops-I 'm wanting to zoom on as a very fit 33 year old. But he stayed with me. We did see several thru hikers- flying by at fast speeds. The are the sports cars of the AT, and I am my old Ford Truck. The Trail in this area is mostly rocks and roots and muddy bogs. Exhausting to get through. Much harder than I ever expected. Anyway, we made camp before dark, but ate our dinner, in the dark, put up our bear bag, and got in  in our tents to sleep. But during the night Cisco's air mattress went flat and it got surprisingly cold. So we both shivered in August! Not something we do in Georgia.
And I broke my pole in boggy Trail.


August 11
We got up early, for me at least, around 7:00, had our coffee, a little cereal with powdered milk and packed up and left around 8:40 am. We climbed to the top of Glastonbury Mtn where there is an abandoned fire tower. We climbed to the top and had great views of the mountains all around. This was a treat! We had 12.5 mile day ahead of us, which is long for me, and out of shape and it was indeed grueling! Climbing up boulders that were supposed to be trails, negotiating bogs that were supposed to be trails and generally slogging our way along. I swear the miles in Vermont are longer than other places! Also we saw our first wildlife today-a tiny orange salamander inching his way up the Trail. We had hardly heard any birds since coming here. Maybe they went north for the summer.
We did pass through a few fir forests and they are very nice. But as the day wore on and the bogs became more numerous my patience and energy were wearing out. I thought we would never get to the end of the day! I was worn out!
I don't think I have ever been this exhausted! O for a packless day out here! Anyway my Sweety met us at the end around 6:45 and had beer in the car for us! Heavenly. We love her so much!
Then a motel and rest!
Fell twice. Once almost in front of high schoolers.

August 12:
Oh my!! I was so worn out from our 22 miles in 2 days I was literally sick this morning. No hiking for me. Couldn't even eat my breakfast at the motel. No appetite, like I was sea sick or coming down with something. Felt terrible. Cisco said I shouldn't hike today. After some thinking I went back to bed and slept for hours. Another day in this motel, but it's nice and Cisco and my Sweety got to spend the day getting provisions for us and allowed us to regroup, which we needed. May not make it to Hanover this trip. Will try again tomorrow. My calves really hurt and can barely walk. Hopefully it will improve by morning. Got my appetite back and had a spaghetti dinner, always a favorite with me. I am hoping 66 is not to old to continue this trek. I guess I will find out in the days to come if I can continue huffing and puffing.

August 13

We went to bed early last night in the motel. I slept pretty well but was worried. My calves were so tight I could hardly walk on Saturday. Would I be able to hike today? And all of a sudden I got a lower back pain. I am concerned. They have a delicious breakfast here at the motel, but I was nervous, as I often am
When going from a motel to the Trail. Don't know why. I ate half my blueberry pancakes and drank barely any coffee. Not like me. We got sandwiches at the local market and my Sweety drove us to the trailhead, so we could climb up Mt. Stratton. It was a cool morning and no rain. It had poured the night before as well as the night before that, so we were very lucky to be in a cozy motel. Cisco had suggested to my Sweety that she hike up part way with us. Our total hike to the top at about 3.5 miles. She did hike with us and it was fun! And I got to use my new hiking poles she bought me. My calves were sore, but I was able to hike! Hurray! We said our goodbyes about 2 miles up she went back to the car and we continued on. Soon after the forest turned in the forest I expected for Vermont. Fir trees throughout, soft hiking floor and the smell of Christmas everywhere. After not too long a hike we were at the top and there was a fire tower there to climb with breath taking views of the entire area. And it was windy there on top above the trees. I would not want to be there in the winter!
We ate our lunch and then hiked down the other side of the mountain, about three miles to one of the prettiest scenes: Stratton Pond, actually a big lake and a real lake too! Cisco had been through here before and scouted around until he could find us a campsite with water view. He found us a place to camp and we pitched ours tents and had our traditional afternoon tea.
The camp ranger came by and said we really couldn't camp here, but let it go as we were already set up. We paid $5 per person to camp. Then ate dinner and watched the sunset over the lake. In all our hiking days about 140-we rarely see a sunset. This was very nice! Now to bed and hopes that my calves will feel even better tomorrow.

August 14

10.5 miles-Stratton pond to Manchester
Fell down

August 15-

5.5 miles-Up and down Bromley With Sweety and day pack. Easy day. Staying in Tollway Inn.

August 16-

Peru Peak
Baker Peak rocks
Vanessa hiked to meet us

August 17
White rock cliffs
Hiked Down to eat lunch on cliffs
Vanessa hiked way up
Made cairns
Staying in Rutland

August 18
Zero day-drove to Irasburg-ancestral home of my Sweety
Staying in Rutland where we enjoyed the state fair!

August 19
Hiked over Bear Mountain
Very hard -2 straight ups
Knee hurt in the downs
Slipped and fell on the slippery rock
Hiked separately
Man drove by and warned of bears
Staying in Rutland
Contemplating Monday pick up
Climbing Killington tomorrow

August 20

Climbed Killington
Little Killington
Tough climb with steep hike up high on edge of the world
Little harder than big
Very tough .2 mile crawl to the top
Ate lunch in crevice very windy
Lots of people on top lots of questions
Crawl down harder
Long hike to bottom
Longest hike of the trip 13+ miles
Down to Inn at Long Trail
Great place-perfect for hikers and not to be missed. Lose the miles, gain a great experience. Great food and lodging as envisioned by the AT founder.
From here on Terra Incognito for Cisco

Lots of people

August 21
Long day hiking the continual green tunnel of Vermont.


August 22
Ups and downs
13.4 miles


August 23
Rock walls
Old roads
Where are we?
Close to Hanover
12.4 miles
Flat frog-he wasn't hoppy any more

August 24
On to Hanover. Finally made our hiking goal of this trip! We are now in New Hampshhire hiking in front of Dartmouth College!
Hope to return soon to continue the adventure!